Splash-E (oz16181)

About this Plan

Splash-E. Radio control sport model. Wingspan 43 in, for electric power with MGK geared motor.

Quote: "Fly RC free pull out plan. Splash-E, by Harry Stewart.

For the last couple of years, I have been flying a small three-channel electric floatplane of my own design. While I have really enjoyed it, the fact remains that a floatplane occasionally winds up upside down in the water, despite the best efforts of the pilot. I also wanted four channels because a model is much less likely to turn over if you can keep the wings level, especially when landing. With that in mind, I set out to design a new seaplane.

The Splash-E is a relatively small and light electric flying boat, reminiscent of the Sikorsky flying yachts of the 1930s with a touch of naval patrol boat thrown in. It is perfect for your local neighbor-hood duck pond. It is designed for the inexpensive !VICK motor/gear/prop assembly available from Penn Valley Hobby Center or BMW Model Products; a micro receiver; a small 6-7 amp ESC; three nine-gram or smaller servos; and approximately three ounces of batteries such as a seven-cell 550- 720mAh NiMI I or a 2S 1500mAh Li-Poly. While the Splash-E structure is somewhat more complex than the average small plane, it is not difficult to construct successfully. Keep it light. Performance will suffer at anything over 15 minces. If you prefer not to cut out parts, BMJR Mode] Products will have a laser-cut short kit available soon.

AIRBORNE: Let's start with the fun part. Once you have your Splash-E finished, hook it all up, confirm everything moves in the right direction, and recheck the balance. Charge the battery and you are ready to fly.

I have flown the Splash-E in some pretty rough conditions, but it is a lot more fun when it is calm. Take off and land into the wind whenever possible. You'll rarely have an excuse not to, since there are no runways on water! The air rudder provides positive control when taxiing in any breeze comfortable for flying. When the wind is too strong to turn and taxi downwind, it is blowing too hard to fly your Splash-E.

Takeoffs are a snap. Point it into the breeze and advance the throttle. Keep the wings level with the ailerons and maintain heading with the rudder. Splash-E will come up on the step by itself. Add a little up elevator when you have flying speed and your Splash-E will lift off like a China Clipper. You have to fly it to settle on control throws that suit your flying style, 1 like one-inch rudder travel each way, a14 inch up and down on the elevator, and 3/8 inch up and 1/4 inch down on the ailerons. Some may find these numbers a bit too sensitive on ailerons and elevator.

Landings are just enough of a challenge to be rewarding when done right. Set up a smooth approach with a gentle sink rate. Carry just a little power, keep the wings level, and hold the flare until lust above the water to grease it on. If you get it wrong, the Splash-E will plop in after a bounce or two with no harm done. With the Splash-E you can get away with things that would flip a typical float plane upside down.

If you think you would like a Splash-E of your own, here's how you do it.

HULL, STRUTS AND FLOATS: Identical, mirror image, hull side/strut assemblies are the key to an accurate hull. An accurate hull is essential for keeping the rest of the airframe straight. Assemble the first hull side/strut assembly over the plan. Clamp the second side to the first, separated by waxed paper, and glue the second set of struts in place, aligning them exactly with the first. Add doublers H-6 and H-7 and the 1/64 plywood strut caps, Bevel the tops of both strut assemblies so they will come together with a combined width of 1/8 inch when the sides are joined. Glue formers H-2 and H-3 to one hull side.

Stand this assembly up on the workbench with the step and the rear of the hull touching the bench. You should be able to put the other side in place, with its step and rear edge touching the bench and the tops of the struts perfectly aligned. Glue the second side to the formers, and then glue the struts together at the top and add 1/64 plywood caps to the front and rear of the struts. I also add about three wraps of the Spiderwire just below the caps. Soak it with CA just to make sure that the strut assembly doesn't come apart under load. Sand flat the float edges and attach the first piece of 3/32 cross grain sheet from H-3 forward. This will help to keep the hull aligned while you glue in the remaining formers..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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