Luton Minor (oz16153)

About this Plan

Luton Minor. Radio control scale model. Winngspan 35 in.

Quote: "Semi-scale park flyer. Old-time fun for electric power. Luton Minor, by Rave Royds.

When it first appeared in the late 1930s, the Minor instantly became a firm favourite with budding pilots taking their first steps up the aviation ladder. Weighing just over 400 lb and powered by a modest 35hp Anzani engine it was never going to win Top Trumps, but when it came to functional, no-frills flying, the Luton was simply unbeatable - this was DIY aviation at its very best!

Keeping true to the spirit of the full-size aircraft, the little Luton before you is a gem to fly. With simple and speedy construction you'll be up and airborne with the minimum of fuss, and best of all, it's very easy an the pocket. To aid transportation and storage, our mini Minor features detachable clip-on wings, devoid of elastic bands and other paraphernalia - a true 'plug and play' if ever there was. So, let's get started!

Wings: If like me you grimace at the thought of countess fragile wing ribs being stuck fast to your building board, fear not: this method should prove painless. First off, glue together two 3 ft sheets of 1/16 x 4 in balsa to form a single 36 x 8 in sheet. Trace the wing onto this, mirroring the plan for the right-hand section so as to end up with a full span.

Using a sharp knife and straight edge, lightly score down the wing centreline, taking care not to cut all the way through. With the sheet flat to the board, glue the LE, wing tips and TE upright in position, creating a framework for the remaining components. Next up, glue the eight outer ribs in place, dry-fitting the wing spar to check alignment as you go. Add the ply doublers for the outer wing struts, then leave the assembly to dry. Trim the aileron cut-outs (leaving the centre-section intact) and tidy the wing tips, sanding to remove any rough edges.

To add dihedral, first cut a shallow 'V' into the LE and rear upright at the centreline point and then, supporting the middle of the wing, very gently ease a wing tip off the work surface until the wing creases along the pre-scored centreline. With one panel flat to the board, slide the balsa dihedral jig (see plan for template) in position and run a bead of glue along the centreline, With the jig still in position, glue the plywood LE and TE dihedral braces in place and leave to dry. Add the plywood centre-section doubler and remaining ribs, checking for untoward twists as you go. Finish off by fitting the wing spar and last remaining dihedral brace, leaving the jig in situ until the adhesive has thoroughly set.

Well that's the trickiest part done and dusted, all that remains is to cut the ailerons and rear centre-section from 1-1/2 x 3/8 TE section, carefully sanding to follow the outline of the wing and contour of the ribs.

Unlike a conventional high-winger where the wing is directly attached to the fuselage, the Minor's parasol mainplane is connected via a lattice of supports or 'cabanes'. To make the wings removable, the front cabane slots into a wire loop protruding through the underside of the wing. Once in position, the rear cabanes and wing struts simply clip in, locking the fuselage securely in place. This simple method has proven a quick, strong way of securing the wing and, as mentioned above, there's not an elastic band in sight!

Start by fabricating the wing retaining loop from 1.5mm piano wire, and glue in position. Ensure the loop protrudes through the bottom of the wing and that the legs sit flush along the inside, extending to the first pair of ribs. Secure with a flexible adhesive such as Zap Goo or hot melt. Avoid brittle glues, which will simply crack and splinter over time..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, thanks to RFJ.

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction