Nupiter (oz16144)

About this Plan

Nupiter. Free flight trainer model. Wingspan 24 in, for Cox .020 Pee Wee engine.

Quote: "One of the real joys of modeling is watching a model that you have built climbing high into the sky, then gliding slowly back to earth in wide circles after the engine stops. But a beginner may have a difficult time getting his first gas model to perform like that.

The author's first free-flight gassie many years ago was a sad disappointment. It never got higher than the hand launch, and then headed for the ground like a homesick gopher.

Little 'Nupiter' however should be close to a sure thing for a beginner. It was designed specially for my son as his first free flight, and has proven to be easy to build and fly. It also is inexpensive, with the materials costing only about $2. The Cox .02 Pee Wee engine (about $5) can be used later on for other models, and will last for many years provided it is given reasonable care.

Before beginning the model, study the plan caretwly. Read the notes and suggestions an the plan since these hints will save time and trouble in making a good model. When building on the plan, cover it with a sheet of Handi-Wrap or similar plastic to protect it from glue. Place the plan on a flat building board of soft pine, gypsum board, etc so that pins can be pushed into it.

Choose good quality balsa wood, medium to medium hard and as straight as you can find. White glue is used for wood-to-wood construction. Modal airplane cement is used to attach the covering, and in assembling the tail pieces to the fuselage.

Fuselage: Begin by making a fuselage side from 1/8 sq balsa strips cut and pinned down in position on the plan and glued together with white glue. Use a sharp modeler's knife or single-edged razor blade to cut the balsa strips to the correct length, and make careful, tight joints. Use a pointed stick to fillet the glue around the joint. Let the side dry at least four hours, then remove from plan and build a second side.

During this time, pieces B(2) and C(2) can be cut out and the landing gear wire bent to shape. Sandwich the wire between the double dormer pieces with plenty of white glue between.

Pin the fuselage sides upside down on the plan top view, and glue in the completed landing gear formers BB and CC to insure a rectangular cross section for the fuselage. Then add the rest of the 1/8 sq balsa cross pieces. When this assembly has dried, remove from plan and add the stabilizer incidence wedges and the plywood firewall. The incidence wedges are very important.

Use fine sandpaper and give the fuselage a light going-over to remove rough edges, The smoother and less bumpy the framework, the better the covering will look.

Cut pieces of Silkspan about one inch larger all-around than the surface to be covered. Cut slits where the landing gear wires come out. The fuselage can be covered with four long pieces, one each for the sides, top, and bottom. Work quickly and apply acetate glue (your model cement, not the fast-drying kind) to the outside edges of the area being covered, then lay the pre-cut piece of Silkspan on the part, keeping it flat outward to remove wrinkles or sagging.

When dry, use a razor blade to trim off the excess covering. When the fuselage is completely covered, use a Windex-type sprayer filled with water and lightly spray the entire covering. Let dry, and the Silkspan will pull up tight and smooth.

Glue on the wing saddles and dowels. Give the fuselage two coats of clear dope, allowing a few hours for drying between coats..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

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