Boston Beany (oz16135)

About this Plan

Boston Beany. Free flight rubbber model. All-sheet construction. Wingspan 16 in.

Quote: "If simplicity of design and efficiency of flight in a Bostonian model interest you, this little gem has already caught your eye! All-sheet-balsa construction makes it quick and easy to build. Boston Beany, by Bob Bienenstein.

When I saw the 14-gram, West Coast Bostonian rules, I thought it would open the door for an all-balsa model. I have flown this model indoors quite often. lt consistently will do over a minute below a 24-foot ceiling. I have flown itoutdoors several times and have had no problems with the wind.

As far as flying adjustments, the model is flown right-right by using a slight amount of right and down thrust with some right rudder. The right wing panel has approximately 1/16 washin warped into it (trailing edge down). For indoor flying, I use a .076 x 30-inch loop of Pirelli; outdoors I use a .12 x 24-inch loop.

Why not try a folder for outdoor flying? I would increase the pitch to eight inches. The prop shown has a six-inch pitch and a six-inch diameter. Also, I think a hand launch type DT would be in order.

Building the model is quick and easy. Here are a few helpful hints:

FUSELAGE: After cutting out the sides, lightly score them at the cabin area to facilitate a clean bend as shown on the plan view. To keep the fuselage straight, assemble over the plan view. When all the formers are in place, remove the fuselage from the plan, add the landing gear and all crosswise sheeting. Don't sheet where the wing mounts. The wing will cover this section. The nose section is planked with soft 1/16 x 1/8 strips. Taper the strips in the nose area by approximately 1/16. This will allow for the taper of the nose sec-tions. Now add the 1/32 plywood nose former. Finish the fuselage with fine sandpaper. Add the windshield and side windows. I used .003 plastic film.

WING: Sand the wing to airfoil shape. Bend in the undercamber by steaming and pinning the wing to a flat board with a piece of 1/16 square by 16-inch long balsa placed under the high point. Use scrap pieces of balsa as clamps and don't pin through the wing. When this has set, glue turbulators (heavy thread) in place. Cut dihedral breaks and sand the angles like a H/L glider wing.

RUDDER AND ELEVATOR: Just sand to a streamlined shape and glue in place.

PROP: Cut the prop blank as shown on the plan. Don't trim out the hub area as shown on the side view until the blades are carved. With the length of motor used, it is essential that you have an S hook. For indoor flying, the shaft can be fixed to the prop. Outdoors you need a freewheeler. Also, lock the nose block in place with a rubber band stretched over it with the end anchored to the fuselage. You don't need a winding hook, just slip off the prop and wind the rubber. I wind mine with an indoor winder.

MISCELLANEOUS: I would like to comment on the materials that I used and that you should use. To keep the weight down, use the sizes shown on the plan, all quarter grain must be as light as you can find. For speed of building, I use Super Jet, Hot Stoff, or Zap. If you fly outdoors, give the model a very thin coat of clear dope, and lightly sand afterwards with 600 grit sandpaper. Do your thing with tissue for trim. Have fun!"

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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