Chapter 2 (oz16109)

About this Plan

Chapter 2. Radio control slope soarer model. Wingspan 52 in.

Free plan from RCME, Dec 1981.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 26/6/2025: Added article, thanks to RFJ.

Quote: "A versatile medium sized slope soarer with a choice of wing sections for aerobatics or pylon racing. Chapter 2, by Eric Henderson.

THE SLOPE SOARING conversion I made of the Genesis (Geni-6) was my first swept wing, fully symmetrical slope soarer. The pleasure and flying qualities of this model prompted the design of a successor, Chapter 2.

The considerations were to produce a model with the same, or better performance as the Geni-6 that looked a lot better. The basic configuration was used but a slightly stretched wing and slimline fuselage employed. The rudder and elevator servos were put in tandem and a 250 Ni-Cad (Sanwa type) chosen to permit a very slim fuselage. The fin and tailplane were re-designed to personal and known performance tastes. An evening was spent by first drawing the R/C equipment, Ni-Cad, RX, servo, servo in line and then squeezing the fuselage around them.

Plan complete, I showed it to my friend who on the strength of seeing the Geni-6 fly, decided to build one too. This led to two plans being produced as the Futaba 30M and the Fleet servos were not the same size! Such was the tailored fit of the first plan that the dimensions had to be revised by both widening the formers and increasing the maximum height of the fuselage at F2 by 1/4 in.

In fact the design is quite flexible as long as the incidence lines and wing tail heights and distances are adhered to. My Chapter 2 was a little tail heavy after covering so I extended the nose of the next one by 1/2 in to allow the Ni-Cad to be used as a CG control rather than add lead.

The net result of the design is a clean, low, drag, hence fast aerobatic performer that flies equally well either way up. The speed is controlled by either C of G or elevator trim. the swept wing allowing a slight nose up attitude when flying slow which is just what you need to land a low winger.

Fuselage: Construction is fairly conventional so I will highlight the little personal touches for those who read fast. Cut out fuselage sides and ply doublers ignoring the wing cut away for now. Make a left and a right side by bonding the ply doublers to the sides with contact adhesive. pin or clamp back to back and razor plane to exact match. Mark all formers centre line, tail cut-out and wing centre line. At this stage I
cut holes for the servo bearers which are fitted before sanding. This will ease the fitting of these items in the cramped space and also provides a shockproof mount.

Separate sides and cut tailplane slots. Mark wing centre line on outside of fuselage halves and make a deep pin hole at each end of the line that can be found after carving (all will be revealed). Glue on 1/4 in triangular strip to and bottom as per plan bringing lower strips to butt against F2 and F3.

Cut out F1, F2 and F3 and it is make your mind up time. It is wise to establish the servo throw directions that are to be employed because the snakes have to run against the fuselage sides to clear the ailerons etc. Spend a few minutes doing this and you can then mark the snake runs on the fuselage sides and notch F2 and F3 accordingly. Cut exit holes for snakes and cyanoacrylate into place at rear exit points. Note on FD 30M inner hole on servo and outer on elevator horn had to be used so position snake exit as low as 3/4in. below tailplane. The rear under-belly is raked upwards to give ground clearance so you should not have a problem. Taper 1/4 in triangular strip at rear of fuselage sides, as per plan. I actually overdid this, but the resulting concave taper of the finished product was very pleasing (it's up to you).

The formers F2 and F3 are now glued in place with either white wood or epoxy glue (don't put glue on the snake outers). Use plan to ensure a square box is formed (with fuselage inverted). Check the fuselage lengths are equal. A tip I use here is to cyano small pieces of triangular strip either side of the formers before gluing assembly together to aid accurate alignment. When dry, join rear halves and fit Fl once again checking for accuracy by viewing over plan. At this stage the snake outers should be pulled taut and glued to F3 to ensure a slop free run.

Cut and fit bottom deck. Note nose plank had a notch cut in it to match F2 and this faces up to the wing. Fit aerial straws or 'sellotape joined' scraps of snake outer. Run snake out of rear top deck. Fit front top deck and allow to dry. When dry, plane to square cross-section and mark centre lines top and bottom, and pre-cut slot for fin but do not continue cut out to rear, leave about 1/2 in short. This will allow extensive carving that will produce an undamaged fillet to the fin. Razor saw hatch free, using centre line to achieve square cross cuts..."

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