Speug (oz16048)

About this Plan

Speug. Rubber sport model. Wingspan 24 in.

Quote: "The Speug, by DJ Miller. THIS interesting little heavy-weight is capable of straight-line flights of 60-90 seconds, and has actually flown a straight 100 yards in a thick drizzle, weighing one ounce incee when picked up than when released. It would appear that the principles embodied in its design are worthy of note to all those who are interested in scale model duration.

Further, it is built to conform to Wakefield formula and if scaled up to the ratio of 5:3 it will fulfil the new conditions. The construction is by no means difficult, although it is not exactly a beginner's. job in respect of two things - the balsa veneer covering and the gearbox fitting, which call for either a little skill or a modicum of patience.

Gearbox: Two Frog gearboxes (7-1/2d each at any good toyshop) are required. The bottom half of the box is cut off one and the top half is cut or filed off the other. The lay-shaft or propeller shaft of one is discarded and the bottom half soldered on to the other by sweating on a strip of tin across the joints in the gear casings. If the gears be put in mesh and the fronts of the casings be kept flat, the job will be both solid and satisfactory. Two that I have seem indestructible. Look at the draw-ing and lock at the gearboxes before starting to cut.

Fuselage: Details of the formers are given. Two of each are needed, and one of balsa cut from the birch-ply, using the latter as a template in each case. Two 1/32 birch-ply sandwich the balsa, making an extraordinary light and strong former. No.1 is 1/8 balsa on account of its taking the landing load, for which purpose a piece of 1/16 aluminium tubing is inserted where shown. Observe that noseblock and formers 1-5 are all in line on top. This is an important practical datum line. Keep them straight when joining in the usual manner with 1/16 balsa stringers. The nose block, cut out to fit the gearbox and faced with 1/32 birch-ply should be fitted after the formers have set. The tail block should be made complete with tail hooks, notched, fitted, and glued in, correctly. Incorrect fitting will result in the gearbox being torn out of its setting and/or two twisted gear hooks. The model is fairly high-powered. Do not forget the block 'C' which gives the elevator an accurate setting.

Before covering the body with balsa, sandpaper the sheets down carefully and evenly to about 1/50 inch. It will then take the radius quite evenly without splitting or soaking, between formers 1 and 4. Glue a strip to the top stringer, and pin it at the formers, then glue the other formers and stringers, bringing the veneer down as you go, one side and one stringer at a time, between the stringers mentioned. The other parts may be covered in strips or sections according to the builder's disposition. It is possible to cover the whole fuselage in one piece cut in suitable places aien; the stringers. Use Durofix - it does not dry too quickly - and use plenty. Do not hurry the job of covering - get on with something else whilst one piece which you have successfully stuck down in place is drying hard. When finished, polish over with 00 sandpaper and dope with banana oil.

Tailplane and Rudder: These may or may not be made and covered with balsa veneer. The veneer I have used has prolonged the life of the plane and made dirty weather flights possible. They are streamlined and symmetrical non-lifting and no incidence is given to the tail, which lies along the thrust line. The keel was fitted as this to my last two models and cured a tendency to the flat spin, due perhaps to the parasol, semi-streamlined body giving low side area and the short radius of gyration or even perhaps something entirely different. The trimming tab on the keel gives a very fine adjustment when necessary: the two in conjunction, though small and near to the CG, control flight movement very effectively indeed and must not be moved to any great extent.

Undercarriage: An examination of the drawing will, I think, be sufficient. The 'V' fore and rear legs at each side are held together by a 'U' clip embracing the fuselage. Each end of each clip is turned in a quarter of an inch or so and a cup washer soldered on so as to leave about 3/16 in to clip in to the 1/16 aluminium tubing. The clips on the front legs can be allowed to project a little further into the aluminium tube that goes right through the nose block immediately behind the gearbox and touching it. A loop may be wound in the rear leg. if no loop is put in. the 'plane will take no harm, for upon landing too abruptly, at too great an angle, the spring in the wire will cause the model to do a complete 'handspring' somersault and land again, generally upon its wheels, without damage - an amusing manoeuvre, more especially when after somersaulting it takes off a second time for another trip. Thin copper aerial wire is used for binding the wire joints.

Propeller: The propeller is a fine pitch 8-1/2 in. The drawing is copied from the one used in making my last propeller. Use American whitewood. It is beautiful stuff to work and does not break in a hurry. In spite of a very slender boss, the one I made has already done hundreds of flights, and not all successful ones by a long chalk. just carve the block according to the diagram and mark the corners that are to be the leading and trailing edges of each blade with a pencil, and see that the pencil line is not touched whilst carving..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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