Fokker DVII (oz15948)

About this Plan

Fokker DVII. Radio control sport scale WWI biplane fighter model. Wingspan 72 in, wing area 1488 sq in, for .60 to .80 engines.

Quote: "Welcome to the World of OrLine R/C. The Fokker D-VII seems to have been a reflection of the genius who designed her, Anthony Fokker; or as we like to call him 'Tony'. The original design, which used a triplane fuselage, was modified on the spot when flight trials by the Red Baron showed it to be directionally unstable and vicious in the stall. Claiming 'a slight landing accident' Fokker wheeled the machine into the hanger and secretly had two of hi best welders cut the fuselage in two and add on an additional two foot bay. The fin was also enlarged. Von Richthofen could hardly believe the improvement the mere 'adjustments' had made. The other military experts agreed and Fokker was on his way with a 10,000,000 mark order for 400 airplanes.

Our scale on this model is approximately to 1 to 4.75. As you dyed-in-the-wool scale experts will note however, our kit is a fun scale model. Design philosophy is to give you models that go together fast and are joy to fly. Although the kit appears to have many parts, the model fits together quickly and in a straight forward manner. The flight characteristics of this model we believe you will find to be a real ball!. Half throttle with a good .60 and a 14-4 prop makes for the most realistic and exciting takeoffs! Full throttle has the plane airborne almost immediately.

We do suggest a few notes on the building. Leaf through the manual and study the pictures. Read each step in the construction sequence completely through before beginning that step. Build the model more or less in the order prescribed. As you will see, the lower wing needs to be built before the fuselage is framed. We suggest the use of cyanoacrylate (Hot Stuff, Zap, etc) and 5-Minute epoxy glues. Use the 5-minute epoxy in high stress areas such as joining the wings, gluing on the firewall, etc. Use Hot Stuff or similar glues elsewhere. Micro-balloons and/or baking-soda will help you in making strong joints out of any loose fits you may have when using the cyanoacrylate glues.

The cowl may be painted with epoxy paint. We recommend that a Semco Pitts muffler be used. A Robart ultra-fueler makes tanking up a breeze. On our prototypes we have used transparent Red Solarfilm and Monokote and found them both to be very satisfactory. However most any covering of your choice would be suitable.

TOP WING: 1. Begin top wing by laying out plan for left wing panel. Wing Panels are built on a flat Surface.

2. Sandwich a W-8 rib between two W-9 ribs. Be sure spar slots and trailing edges line up. Glue ribs together with 5-minute epoxy, checking to be sure slots for N-brace anchors are clear of glue. The anchors will be added later.

3. In this step we will add capstrips to bottom side only of long ribs. Insert long ribs into their prospective slots in leading edge. Mark ribs at point they just enter leading edge. Wing tip rib and W-2 8 (rib next to cabine block in wing) have cap strips offset toward fuselage. Capstrips should hang over 1/4 in past end of W-7s (ribs in front of ailerons). Cap strips should go only to 1/8 in from end of W-1s and W-2 to allow for trailing edge..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Quote: "Gentlemen, Please find attached a set of Orline DVII plans, instruction manual and a template for the lower wing center section for your review and use. I recently found someone with a kit that had this information and wanted to see if you could use it since it is not on you website. Thank You. Fred Daniels"

Supplementary file notes

Instructions.
Template (wing CS).

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