Piper Sky Sedan (oz15938)

About this Plan

Piper Sky Sedan. Control line scale model. Wingspan 36 in.

Planfile includes full build instructions.

Quote: "A 36-inch super scale control-line model of the new Piper lightplane. Power with any class A, B or C engine. Piper Sky Sedan, by Paul Plecan.

BIG BROTHER of the famous Cub, the Piper Skysedan promises to develop into one of the leading light-planes of the field. Seating four and cruising at an honest 140 mph (top is 175 mph), the Skysedan is well within the price range of the private flier who wants to fly cross counttry in style.

As a control-line model, the Skysedan also offers features rarely combined in most model designs. Aside from sparing the model builder's purse, the job is easy to build, easy to fly and what's more, easy to eye!

Cut the bulkheads from the indicated stock and then form pieces F-13 to F-20. Assemble the fuselage as shown in the perspective views and, after the section is fully planked, sand smooth. Fill in the rear section of the cockpit with soft solid stock and then carefully carve so a smooth curve results.

Construction of the nose section is similar to that of the fuselage. The nose section contains the complete ignition unit and is removable to permit battery replacement and general engine trouble shooting. The plans show mounting position of the Arden .199 engine, the installation of which is greatly simplified because of the radial mounting method. However, should your engine require regular beam type mounts, alter the nose bulkheads to take the mounts and cut the cowl to fit the engine.

Wing construction is also simple and strong - just in case you plan to use a Hornet or McCoy. In that only half of the wing is shown, trace the outline to make a rough left side and then proceed to construct each panel separately. Pin the spars directly over the plan, set the ribs in place and then add the edges and tip pieces. Remove the structure from the plan and then join the panels together, making certain the dihedral is 2 inches. Form and cement the landing gear strut to the spars. Bind with heavy thread and when dry proceed to cover the top of the center section and leading edge with sheet balsa. Trim the edges, sand and your wing structure is complete. Cut the tail surfaces from sheet stock, sand and set aside.

The wing and fuselage are now joined: Sand or trim any bumps on the fuselage so a generous cementing area exists but do not change the incidence angle. Now, while you wait for the cement to dry, assemble the control plate on the control mounts as shown. If desired, you can bolt the control plate to a plywood mount - we just thought it was stronger to use the steel wire.

The tail surfaces are now cemented in place and adjustments made in the control assembly. With the control plate in a neutral position, the elevators should line up with the stabilizer. In any event, make sure that you have elevator movement of at least 1/2 in up and 1/4 in down.

The ignition tray is built into the rear of bulkhead F-4A. Place the coil up against F-4A and use a pack battery of double-penlite size; a larger unit won't fit. Rubber bands hold the battery secure and also permit shifting for balancing. The nose section should be 'double-papered' or silk covered so it won't wear when handled continu-ously. When using the Arden engine it will be necessary to scrape a little of the cowling bottom to make way for the tank. The shaded rectangle on the drawing represents a small removable panel which should be removed for choking abd adjust the mixture arm. To permit removal of the engine, cut the top of the cowl away and hold it in place with rubber bands in much the same manner as the nose section is held to the fuselage.

The windshield, tail cone, landing gear strut cover, etc, are now added. Use a heavy grade of celluloid for the windshield (.020 - .025 in) so that it contributes to the strength of the assembly. Fit the tail cone and sandpaper to conform with the lines of the fuselage. Before cementing the cone in place permanently, check the control movement because it may be necessary to make the tail cone wall thinner to gain the required elevator movement.

A snappy paint job sets off any model to its best advantage, so take it easy and do a good job. Two coats of clear dope arc needed after masking off the celluloid areas, followed by three or four coats of the light color used in your color scheme. Once dry, mask off the light colored areas and color the balance. Decal numbers will simplify the job of applying license numbers to wing and rudder.

Balance the model at a point slightly forward of the front spar and you're ready for flying."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 1/4/2025: Added article, thanks to Pit.

Supplementary file notes

Article.

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