Outdoor Hand Glider (oz15866)

About this Plan

Outdoor Hand Glider. Simple all-sheet HLG. Wingspan 17 in.

Quote: "HERE'S a fine outdoor hand-launched glider for whose performance we'll go on record as saying it is one of high dependability. We won't say, however, that it is going to be a consistent record-buster because you may fly it on one of these days when the glider just won't win that contest and you might think we gave you a bum steer.

Glider making might be old stuff for the majority of FLYING ACES modelers so we'll just point the more important parts of glider making out while leaving the rest of it to your personal taste and technique.

The fuselage or stick is cut and sanded to shape from a hard piece of balsa measuring 5/16 by 17-1/4 in. Its cross-section is shown by the front view which has a rounded bottom as well as top except for a portion of the stick which is notched to receive the dihedral angle for the wings as shown. The extreme end is trimmed in a convex manner to accommodate a streamlined shape stabilizer.

Next step is to make the wing from a single piece of sheet measuring 3/16 by 3 by 17 in. Sand the wing down to the camber shown and then proceed to form the undercamber which should result in a completely arched wing all the way out to the extreme tips. After completion, the wing is cut in half and attached in the notch with a generous application of cement. Set the body upright and place 'props' underneath each wing tip to hold them at an angle of 3. To strengthen the wings, it is suggested that a balsa wood-cement filleting mixture be worked in directly over the center panel joints.

Both the rudder and stabilizer are cut and shaped from a piece of sheet balsa 3/32 thickness. The elevator is streamlined while the rudder is cambered to the direction in which the model is to climb. A slight left turn is accomplished by cambering the left side of the rudder only.

Molding clay or soft putty well mixed with linseed oil to retain its pliability may be used for the balance. The blackened-in section in the nose shows the area to be covered with the balancing material.

To effect tighter circles, it is suggested that the modeler give a washin or wash-out of the wing tips. This can be done by first gently warping to observe the effects. If satisfactory, the part may be broken slightly and glued in that position permanently. "

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

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