Isaacs Fury (oz15683)

About this Plan

Isaacs Fury. Radio control scale model biplane, for electric power.

Quote: "Isaacs Fury. Full size FREE Plan feature. A 33 in (838mm) span electric powered model designed by Peter Rake. The prototype model was built and test flown by Alan Gorham.

AIthough drawn up some little time ago, at the request of a modeller, there was something of a delay getting the prototype model built. Whilst an attractive little aircraft, it's really too modern for my tastes and the person who had originally requested it decided not to remain in modelling. Fortunately for us all, Alan Gorham came to the rescue, building the model you see here.

The model If you think this looks far too much like a model to be a scale model, there is a reason for that - the original aircraft was, to all intents and purposes, a man carrying model of a Hawker Fury, even if not a very accurate model of a Fury. The Mk.2 was more Fury-like, but I opted to draw the Mk.1 version for two reasons. Reason one, its easier to build, and reason two is that it allows for installation of a wider range of motors, including the inexpensive GWS series. If you require more power than the humble GWS 350 then replacing the motor but retaining the gearbox is an easy option. Alan, however, went the whole hog and used a Tornado 2015-5400 brushless motor in a 6,6:1 gearbox, He definitely wanted more power, and is perfectly happy with the end result.

Equipment and installation: Since we've already discussed motor options, I suppose now is as good a time as any to look at what other gear will be required - and how it will be fitted to the model.

The motor, be it Alan's option the standard GWS unit or upgraded GWS, is fitted to a hardwood motor post - to which it should be screwed. Making the front and bottom of the cowl removable will allow easy access for whatever option you choose.

Servos may be any small type, although Alan does point out that H555 servos only just fit into the wings. He used them because that's what he had, but recommends smaller servos for aileron operation. Whilst the aileron servos are mounted to the ply plates, rudder and elevator servos use conventional bearers mounted across the fuselage. Screw the latter to the bearers and either glue (hot melt), or servo tape the aileron servos in place.

Receiver and ESC may be mounted in your preferred manner, but servo taped to the fuselage sides is a good option. Alan used a Hitec 555 receiver and Tornado 20 Amp ESC, with power being supplied by a Kokam three-cell, 2000 mAh LiPo pack.

Ailerons and elevator used pushrod linkages but the rudder uses a closed loop set up.

Fuselage: Because building the fuselage is likely to be the longest task, let's get that out of the way first. Since the model, having no dihedral, is not really aimed at the novice, I won't give a step-by-step build sequence. If you absolutely NEED that type of help, maybe this isn't the model for you. However, I will provide sufficient guidance for those modellers who, able to fly proficiently, are embarking on one of their first plan builds.

The first thing you need to note about the fuselage is that the basic box is built as two separate sections, a sheet box for the front and a built up box for the rear. Both sections are then joined before adding deckings, struts, undercarriage, etc. The other thing to remember is to keep all structures perfectly straight and square. Bent or twisted fuselages do fly, but straight ones fly better.

So, with the two basic box structures joined there is a decision to be made - to bind the undercarriage wires in place, or to retain them with small saddle clamps. If you'll be using saddle clamps, proceed with the fuselage. If not, you'll notice that it is extremely difficult to bind the undercarriage in place unless it's done pretty soon. I would suggest that the bottom of the fuselage be finished, sanded and covered at least the u/c area) before doing anything else. Now, you have the entire open top of the fuselage through which to access the bindings. Once the u/c is in place, you're ready to catch up with the saddle clamp boys.

Add formers, centre section struts, top deckings (Alan added a central stringer to support the sheeting) and any remaining fill pieces, then tack glue the cowl blocks in place. Alan made both front and lower blocks removable and gave them a tissue, dope and paint finish. Locating dowels keep them aligned and small magnets hold them in place..."

From R/C Scale International, June 2006.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Note see original RCGroups prototype build thread by Alan Gorham at: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?304601-Peter-Rake-Isaac-s-Fury-build-thread

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