Flying Foo (oz15655)

 

Flying Foo (oz15655) by Walter Kahn 1939 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Flying Foo. Free flight rubber sport biplane model.

Quote: "High wing, low wing or biplane - the Flying Foo is both a versatile and superb flier. Come on, beginners, build and fly the Foo! By Walter Kahn.

WITH all the Foos flying around like bees in a hive, thanks to Comic Artist Bill Hollman, it may seen strange that not one person has ever really seen a Flying Foo. So, model builders, or pardon me, gentlemen, in order that in your old age you may be able to tell the little kiddies what a Flying Foo looked like, we borrowed a friend's best pen, diluted our ink for the fourth time, and with the help of an aspirin tablet produced what we think is the first Flying Foo in captivity.

Were we surprised at the results! We made the startling discovery that our little brain child was not just an ordinary everyday version of a Foo. Not only can it be Fooed as a biplane, with the top and bottom wings interchangeable, but also as a monoplane, and by removing the upper wing and placing it on the bottom it Foos just as well as a low-wing job. So you see what we really produced was a super, colossal, stupendous, gigantic, sensational version of a Flying Foo. (OK, your honor, maybe luck did have something to do with it. A guy can't help stumbling onto a good thing now and then, can he?)

All set, men? Here we go. The plan being full size, there is no need to redraw any parts, as the layouts on the drawing can serve as the necessary jigs. To eliminate the possibility of the paper sticking to the various parts it is advisable to cover the plane with translucent paper.

FUSELAGE: The fooselage - pardon, we mean fuselage, is constructed in the usual box form. Sheet one and two attached to each other give the full-size layout of the fuselage frame. The complete frame is made from 3/32 square stock. The frame is best made by steaming the longerons before bending them to shape. The various parts of the frame should be pinned to the plan and kept intact until all the members are secured in place. After the two side frames have been made, the cross braces are next installed. In installing the cross braces it is advisable first to secure the largest member in place; next glue the ends of the fuselage together. When both sets of joints have dried, the other cross members can be installed.

LANDING GEAR: The landing gear is bent from No. 8 wire to the shape shown. It consists of two parts. The end of the front wire strut is bent to serve as the axle. The rear wire strut is attached to the front strut and secured in place by thread and glue. The landing-gear struts themselves are also held to the cross members of the fuselage with thread and glue. The wheel is one inch in diameter, and it may either he purchased or cut from balsa. The wheel is held on the axle by soldering a small washer to the end of the axle as shown. The fairing between the struts is cut front 1/16 sheet stock.

NOSE BLOCK: The nose block is shaped from a piece of balsa wood 1 x 1 x 1-5/8. It is hollowed out to a wall thickness of approximately 3/32. A small plug is made to fit in front of the nose through which the propeller shaft passes..."

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Flying Foo (oz15655) by Walter Kahn 1939 - model pic

Datafile:
  • (oz15655)
    Flying Foo
    by Walter Kahn
    from Air Trails
    June 1939 
    18in span
    Rubber F/F Biplane Cabin
    clean :)
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 13/10/2024
    Filesize: 118KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: dfritzke
    Downloads: 166

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Notes

* Credit field

The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.

Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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