Flip and Flop (oz15645)

About this Plan

Flip and Flop. Hand launch glider model.

Quote: "The hand-launched glider probably is the most popular of all forms of model aircraft. Simple to build and fly, the HLG brings much enjoyment to the hobby. A good model can be built in as little as a couple of hours, and should not require more than a day or evening if you work slowly. That really depends on how long it takes the cement to dry. Once you have mastered the technique of throwing your glider you will obtain Many fine, long flights - and it is quite possible you will know the excitement of catching a thermal (rising warm air current) which could carry the craft out of sight. So be sure to put on it your name, address, and phone number.

The two models shown here (se full-size plan on the following pages) were created by the late Cal Smith, an internationally famous designer of all forms of model aircraft.

The difference between the two lies in the wing dihedral. One model has the dihedral-angle break at the center of the wing, the other has a flat center section with both tips angled upward. Dihedral is always necessary in free-flying models to provide the necessary stability, or ability to fly without crashing in a descending spiral to the ground. Stable models return to a correct flying position whenever acted upon by some upsetting condition, such as a gust of wind.

Although Flip and Flop are simple models to build, they are rather lightly built for their size in order to increase their duration of flight to a maximum. The instructions and material sizes are printed conveniently on the plans. On the page at the right will be found tips on tools and assembly procedures, as well as flying instructions. So let's dikuss possible points of difficulty in cutting out and working up your materials.

Note that the fuselage (body) is a 3/16 x 3/8 strip. This strip should be medium hard balsa for strength. If you have difficulty obtaining this size wood, cement together two pieces of 3/16 sq. Use a few pins to hold the strips together until dry, or wrap them tightly with rubber bands which can be pulled away afterwards.

The wing is only 1/16 thick. Actually, you can substitute soft 3/32 sheet balsa if you wish without too much of a flight penalty. Lightly sand off any wood fuzz. It is enough to gently round off the leading and trailing edges on the 1/16 sheet. A super job results from sanding the wing to the cross section shown on the plan. This is hard to do with 1/16 sheet, not so hard with 3/32. The tail must be 1/16 sheet because models easily become tail heavy. it is advisable to taper the body stick as suggested. Not to do so will require more nose weight for balancing, and less duration of flight.

A good glider really ought to be well finished. Mix about one ounce of clear dope with four or five drops of castor oil and enough talcum power to make a very thin cream-like substance. Before the wing and tail are glued in position, paint on a thin coat of your special finisher. After it dries, sand it lightly with very fine sandpaper, and then put on another coat, Bare wood creates extra skin friction or air drag. The smooth finish allows the model to slide through the air more easily. Do not paint the model - minimum weight is important. You can trim it with a touch or two of colored dope, or apply colorful decals obtained from your hobby shop. Have fun!"

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