Bristol M1B Scout (oz15637)

About this Plan

Bristol M1B Scout. Radio control scale model. Wingspan 30 in, for single channel and Cox Pee Wee .020 engine.

Quote: "Many, many years ahead of its time in 1916 the British Monoplane fighter makes a distinctive good-flying project for single-channel RC, or you may wish to modify it for more controls with the Cannon RC system.

IMAGINE A FULLY streamlined monoplane fighter with a maximum speed in the vicinity of 130 mph, designed and available in 1916, and not being put into production. And this was not some freakish design but a very practical and well-engineered aircraft, built by an established manufacturer.

Exactly why the Bristol Monoplane didn't see service on the Western Front is still a mystery. True. there was still some prejudice against monoplanes in this time period, resulting from much earlier flying accidents, but several monoplanes did make it to the combat zone, and were successful. The Bristol Monoplane, however, did not. A token quantity was made. shipped to the Middle East, and there saw some action, but in general no real use was made of the potent M1.

One of the excuses for not producing the Bristol was that the landing speed was too high for the small Western Front aerodromes, but this does seem more of an excuse than a serious defect in the design. Whatever the real reasons were, the fact remains that the aircraft did not see action in a serious way, and why remains only one of the many mysteries of Government thinking in WWI. For those interested in greater historical details, a list of references can be found at the end of this article.

This is the second Bristol Monoplane I've built, the first one being a free-flight version powered by an aged diesel and alxno fifty percent bigger than the model shown here. This turned out to be an excellent flier, and also a world traveller. Constructed in California, and first flown in Sepulveda Basin, it was then taken to England on one of my longer trips back there and flown casually for most of one summer. On one of its flights (let's make just one more flight type), it flew away in the dark, and was next heard of in the local Police Station, after being picked off some irate citizen's roof. However, that's another model, and another time, so let's get back to the current version.

Construction: Construction can be seen to be quite conventional, and the following notes discuss some of the building details and sequences.

Landing Gear: The building sequence I prefer is one where all the items are made in the order that they are required, so that the completion of one part isn't interrupted by having to stop work and make another subsection first, if you see what I mean. Anyhow, this system leads us to start with - guess what - the undercarriage. This has to be installed about half way through the fuselage construction. so it's a good idea to get it ready now.

The main legs are made from a single piece of wire, and the plans show the true shape of this before the final bends are put into it. Try to make this base frame as accurately as possible; after this, carefully bend down each leg equally, so that the model will sit correctly when it's completed. When the frame has been bent satisfacturily the axle can be cut and attached. This is lashed into the V of the leg with fine copper wire, then soldered in place. The wheels car either be attached now, or after the model has bccn finished and painted, I usually do the latter, as my spray painting tends to corer everything, and everybody.

The completed undercarriage can now be put on one side while we get on with the next item, which is the fuselage.

Fuselage: This begins by selmaing about half dozen good quality lengths of 1/8 sq for the basic fuselage box. Now spread the plans on the building board, and cover the fuselage section with a sheet of wax paper. Pin down two of these 1/8 sq strips for the upper and lower longerons, then cement all the 1/8 sq spacers into place. When this frame is dry, remove it from the board, and make another one exactly the same.

While this latter fuselage side is setting up the 1/8 ply firewall is cut out and drilled for the engine mounting bolts. When both fuselage frames are available they should be sanded very lightly, then joined together with 1/8 sq spacers and the firewall..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

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