Air Adventurers Power Model 2 (oz15572)

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Air Adventurers Power Model 2.

Quote: "Air Adventurers Power Model #2. A more advanced design, for the more advanced Air Adventurer. This semi-cabin scale-type rubber-powered flyer will give excellent flights.

Now that followers of this series have built several types of gliders, and a very elementary powered model, we feel it is time to tackle a model that begins to resemble the real thing. Our design this month is what might be called a modified profile-cabin monoplane. The fuselage is a copy of that used on small private planes, if you view it from the side - it has a similar profile, in other words.

For simplicity of construction, the fuselage is only wide enough to accommodate the rubber motor; however, the little ship is very realistic in appearance from most any angle, and is the logical step between the ultra-simple stick design of last month, and the full cabin design that will come in the next issue.

The entire plane follows the principle of cutting an element out of balsa sheet, then cutting out the inner outline to reduce weight. Sound complicated? Well, it really isn't—just look at the plans and you'll get the idea.

Let's start on the wing to see how this easy system of construction works. Draw out the full-size outline of the wing on your sheet of 3 x 1/8 in thick soft balsa. You can do this best by preparing an enlarged full-size drawing. Cut a cardboard pattern to shape and trace the shape onto your 1/8 balsa for both wing halves.

Cut the wing to outside shape with a sharp, pointed model knife. Don't try to cut all the way through on one pass, but go around the outline three or four times until the knife point comes through the other side. Use special care when cutting cross-grain - your knife must be sharp or it will tear the soft balsa instead of cutting it.

Check the two wing halves with your cardboard form to make sure they are of correct size, then sand the edges to achieve the cross-section shown in wing assembly Step #1. Next, cut the inner portion out of each wing half; again we say - use a sharp, pointed modeler's knife and take it easy! If you rush the cutting too much and split the wing frame, no great damage is done; just glue it together and work awhile on another part of the model. Make sure one of the wing inner portions is removed in good condition, for you will need it to make the stabilizer.

The cut-out wing outline must be bent to the shape shown in Step #2. To do this, moisten the upper surface all the way across at the inner end, and also about 1-1/2 in at each tip. Just dip your finger in water and spread it on the upper surface. This will automatically warp the wing in the correct direction, but you will have to shape it as shown in Step 2.

Set the wing outlines aside to dry, and turn your attention to the ribs. The easiest way to make these is shown in Step 3. Cut a piece from the 1/2 in balsa stock and trim it to the size and shape indicated. You can then slice off 1/16 wide ribs with a straight edge and razor blade. Make the ribs all the same length and cut them to final length when you install them; cut them short at the rear only, not at the front..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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