Skeeter Hawk (oz15450)
About this Plan
Skeeter Hawk. Simple chuck glider model.
Quote: "The boy with the broomstick had the last laugh as he cleaned out the King Orange Internats, glider fans. Skeeter-Hawk, by Curtis B Taylor.
Designs are usually a carefully worked out scheme for improving the flying and handling characteristics of a model. In this case just the opposite happened. Skeeter-Hawk was not only an effort to fly but to attract attention with an usual type of model. With this bit of information for a background, we will relate the metamorphosis of a Skeeter-Hawk.
Shortly after returning home from school in 1952, we decided to build a flying-type machine that would leave them gasping when we flew it at the local flying session on a Sunday. We had never been particularly successful with gliders but enjoyed tossing them around, so with little knowledge we proceeded to build a conversation piece that ended up being one of the hottest gliders we have ever seen.
Looking through our stock of scraps, we found a broken yardstick that might do for a fuselage and after much work with a slide rule and higher mathematics, we arrived at the conclusion that 23 in was a nice figure for its length (since the yardstick was broken off at the 23 inch mark!)
We decided that with the long fuselage we would need a large stab, which was later cemented on backwards for added effect. With this weird combination of parts, the Skeeter-Hawk took shape: a handlaunch glider that by present rules should be uncontrollable on the launch, have poor recovery, and be a strict anti-thermalist.
We took her out to test fly before the cement was set (who doesn't), and the results amazed both of us. After adjustments, we took the dimensions down and decided to give her the acid test over a hot runway to see if she would ride a thermal. After the first launch she glided lazily around for about ten minutes before disappearing into the bottom of a cumulus cloud.
We decided to work seriously on the design because we had never lost a handlaunch glider in a thermal flight. The next ship had a 3/16 wing instead of 3/4, so we could get more altitude on the launch and consequently had to add undercamber for a better glide. (At this time there was no dihedral in the stabilizer and the rudder was on the top.)
With the Tangerine Internat's only a few weeks away, we built three new gliders with an old one for a spare, and headed for Orlando, Florida. When we took them out for a test hop the glider boys all laughed at the 'boy with the broomsticks,' but the sneers quickly turned to gasps and prompted questions about the dimensions. We surprisingly won First place to be followed quickly by a First place in Atlanta at the '53 Southeasterns. We also won 2nd place at the '54 Southeasterns and a friend won 3rd place with the same design. We won 2nd place at the King Orange Internats in Miami in '54, 2nd in the Southeastern in '57; and with the 1/2A FF model of the same design we won 2nd in the same contest.
There have been small handlaunch gliders, infant powered 1/2A FF's, rubber models, and a Nordic glider built around the same design. All have been good stable fliers. Further experimentation along this line was interrupted by having to enter the Air Force. While in service we worked on the design and came up with a 1/2A Veto model and a Nordic towliner. With these models the dihedral decreased, the rudder was placed on the bottom, and dihedral was added to the stabilizer.
The construction is simple and straightforward, but remember, it must be strong, unwarped and light.
FUSELAGE: Select a light, straight white pine yardstick, which can be obtained from a paint store or a lumber yard, and draw the outline along one of the flat edges. (Note: One yardstick will make two fuselages). Use a sanding block and sand off all writing and numerals. Round all edges except where the wing and stab connect.
WING: Select a strong light piece of 3/16 glider wing stock, or similar material. (Solid balsa wings may be substituted and the undercamber may be omitted but this will greatly hinder the performance.) Cut the center pieces out of each panel and then the tip outlines. Cut six ribs out of light 1/16 sheet, and cement them in place. Let dry thoroughly, then sand in the upper and lower cambers and taper the tips. Bevel the wing roots and pre-cement. Join the wing halves, and cover with light Silkspan or tissue of a bright color.
STAB & RUDDER: Cut the stab from a piece of light, unwarped 1/16 balsa, and the rudder from hard 1/32 sheet. Round the edges and sand. Add dihedral to the stabilizer and let it dry. Pre-cement the bottom of the stab where the stab cements to the fuselage and pre-cement the edge of the rudder.
ASSEMBLY: Check to make sure that all joints and places on the fuselage where the wing, stab, and rudder join, are pre-cemented. Cement the wing to the top of the fuselage with Ambroid cement. Use pins to assure that the wing stays in place while drying. Use a faster cement on the stab and rudder, and attach them to the fuselage carefully checking the alignment of the rudder, and angle of stabilizer. After the model is dry give it two coats of thinned dope, sanding lightly after the first coat.
ADJUSTMENT: Now that the Skeeter-Hawk is completed, let's give her a chance to try her wings. You may use your own technique, but in case you run up against trouble, here are a few tips that might help. All of our models have used the same adjustment. Add enough clay to the front, using half on each side of the fuselage and molding it to a streamlined shape, to make it glide straight and a little nose down.
Now, bend the rudder for left turn so it will glide in a 20-foot radius circle. It will dive in, so correct by removing clay until it glides in the prescribed turn in a slightly mushing glide. (The model should balance approximately 3/4 in forward of the trailing edge of the wing after proper adjustment.) Warp the left stabilizer trailing edge up slightly. If the model tends to spiral in after recovery, bend down a small portion of the left wing's trailing edge like an aileron. This will correct the spiral tendency but not interfere with the turn while the model glides. You must throw her out and up to the right for proper climb (opposite adjustments for southpaws.) "
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(oz15450)
Skeeter Hawk
by Curtis Taylor
from Flying Models
June 1959
18in span
Glider F/F
clean :)
all formers complete :)
got article :) -
Submitted: 09/07/2024
Filesize: 66KB
Format: • PDFbitmap
Credit*: theshadow
Downloads: 228
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User comments
Our family built a bunch of these over the years. All were good flyers.Dave Boyer - 03/08/2024
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- Skeeter Hawk (oz15450)
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Scaling
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