Estrellita (oz1538)

About this Plan

Estrellita. Low wing rubber sports model. Aeromodeller, January 1956.

Quote: "Estrellita, a 30 inch low-wing that will bring back fond memories for pre-war fliers, and makes a fine sport model for small field flying. By George Woolls From Aero Modeller January 1956.

This little low wing, was developed in an attempt to get regular 'fun flying' without too much cross country chasing. The comparatively low power, (half an ounce of rubber for an overall weight of two and a half ounces, and very modest by present day standards,) is however, sufficient to provide realistic take offs, fast climb, and regular flights of around the minute mark.

Landings are a pleasure as they are 'wheely ones' with the model remaining right side up - given of course a reasonable surface.

The youngsters who have never flown a low wing have a treat in store, while to our contempories, we say: Why not revive memories of the old 'Kinglet', 'Avis' or 'Kingfisher'?

Use best quality medium balsa, golden white with straight grain throughout. Cut the rib template from 1/16 ply or thin metal, leaving out the slots for spars. Using this one template all wing ribs may be produced, by cutting to length from the back and producing a new straight undersurface. Positions of spars can be marked off from the plan. As Leading and Trailing edges are laid flat on the plan no difficulty should be encountered in wing assembly.

The tail ribs are produced in the same way as those for main plane using another template.

Cut the fin from 1/16 sheet, and an anti-warp insert fitted as shown. The short lengths of soft wire cemented into slots enable the rear edge of the fin to be bent as required to produce flight turn. Stick scraps of gummed paper strip over the bottom edge to make a firm fit in the tailplane. This does away with the need for cementing, and so saves space in your model box.

Cut the two fuselage sides from 1/16 sheet, using the wing rib template for the wing mounting cut-out. Pin them together and lightly sand paper their edges to ensure their exact similarity. Cement on the longerons, spacers, wing mount reinforcement etc, making certain that you produce right and left hand sides. Cut out formers F.3 and F.5 and reinforce with 1/8 x 1/16 as shown. Cement sides to formers and when dry, draw the tail ends together. Cement on nose former, and then add remaining formers, cross spacers, stringers etc. Build up the undercarriage box from plywood and paper as shown. Bind with cotton well cemented in place, and assemble into fuselage.

The undercarriage is pretty straightforward, just make sure that you make right and left hand units. Celluloid wheels can be used if desired.

The propeller blades are formed from four laminations of 1/16 sheet, cemented together and left to dry bound to a twisted form. The blade is removed, the fifth lamination added to the back, and sanded to final section, plugged into the paper tube hub, set to correct pitch angle, and pinned. The hub is plugged with hardwood at the centre, bushed to receive the 16 swg tube which forms a shoulder and thrust bearing on the 16 swg wire shaft. Check that the hub can slide fore and aft sufficiently to permit the wire 'driver' bound to the hub, to clear the torque bar on the shaft, thus ensuring free-wheeling.

Cover with lightweight tissue, water spray, and dope with thinned clear dope to which a few drops of castor oil has been added. Pin down wings and tail while drying.

Queries, with SAE addressed c/o the Editor will be answered cheerfully. "

Update 03/07/2017: added article, thanks to RFJ.

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