Fun Scale Fury (oz15358)


Fun Scale Fury (oz15358) by John Rutter 1986 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Fun Scale Fury. Radio control sport-scale model of the Hawker Fury fighter biplane. Wingspan 32 in, for .10 engine and 3 function RC.

Quote: "Grab the sheet balsa and get bashing. Fun Scale Hawker, by John Rutter.

My all sheet ME 163 Korrket (published as a full-size plan in the November '85 issue) proved to be good, not only at flying very fast but also at flying very slowly (in the glide) which - set me thinking. I had always wanted to build a biplane, but could never face the thought of all those wing ribs or the complex way that biplanes seem to be held together. All sheet construction seemed to be an answer and it works! The model won't fly quite as slowly as a built-up wing job but I doubt that it takes half as long to make and the difference in overall flight pattern seems to be neglible.

The Fury always appealed as a colourful, clean and simple biplane, so I built a Matchbox plastic kit and scaled up from that. The result is a biplane with no wing ribs to cut out, very little wire bending and clip together (plus 1 screw) assembly. To keep things small and simple, the original used an OS 10 FR and three channel gear on rudder/elevator/throttle, just like a trainer and not a lot more difficult to fly.

Construction: Wings: I prefer to produce a kit of parts (photo 1) when I build a model as this saves time (I built the original in less than two weeks.) The wings are easy. Butt join the sheet as shown and cut the tip shape out. Plane and sand the aerofoil shape and round the tips off. Mark out the dihedral breaks, crack the underside, put some superglue in the crack, jig the dihedral angle and leave to set. Done like this it's easy to add a thin (wing skin type) glass cloth or nylon reinforcement without losing the angle. The dihedral shown is scale, the model flies well enough on it, but I feel that an improvement may be made if it was increased slightly, as the rudder takes a little while to have the desired effect.

Tail surfaces The tail 'surfaces are out from medium 1/bin sheet and sanded to section. Hinge the rudder with mylar strips and top hinge the elevator with silver solarfilm, not forgetting the 16g joiner. Covering the tail straight away avoids the problem of getting the film into corners later on.

Fuselage: The fuselage construction is very straightforward except for a couple of minor points. The 1/64 ply extends from F2 to F5 inclusive. This section of the fuselage is glued together first, pre-drilling F3 for the U/C. The sharp bend behind F5 is steamed in but the one behind F7 needs to be cracked and glued as for the wings. The rear three formers are built up to give room for the pushrods. Check that the tail sits square but don't glue it in place yet. Check that the fuselage is straight too. (Photo 2). The motor is mounted on a commercial mount, either filed to give the desired thrustline or chocked up; note that the mount is offset from the centre line to keep the spinner in the middle.

Now for the (slightly) trickier bits. I used a tinplate uniflow type tank as I didn't envisage a lot of inverted flying and it meant that I didn't have to bother with a tank hatch - there's not a lot to go wrong. 1 siliconed the tank in place after fitting the gear. Fit the dowel and ply reinforcement plate to the bottom wing and epoxy the pre-drilled ply dowel retainer (nit) to the fuselage when you are happy that the bottom wing sits 'square'. Epoxy the screw retainer plate to the fuselage just above the wing and, when set, drill the hole for the retaining screw through the lot. Remove the wing, enlarge the hole in the fuselage plate and press the captive nut into position. (I use a small G cramp.) Having the bottom wing in place helps to locate the top wing accurately.

Unfortunately wire bending and biplanes seem to go together; I have kept it to a minimum but there is some. The cabane struts are bent first, bound and epoxied to the ply sub formers (F3A, F3C). 24 hr epoxy is the best for this as it flows when it is warmed and sets like a rock. The sub formers should be a tight fit in the furselage sa that they can be adjusted to align the top wing accurately. When happy with the alignment, the plates are retained with thin superglue applied to the joint.

The strut cross-braces will have to be bent to suit your model so I left them off the plan. They are bound with copper wire and soldered into place using a biggish iron and acid flux. Mark off where the cabane struts touch the bottom of the top wing (more or less as per plan, I hope!) and sew and epoxy the 16g tubes in place. Bind and solder the interplant struts together. There are only two shapes involved as the front and rear struts are identical but inverted..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Fun Fury from Radio Modeller, March 1986.

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, thanks to RFJ.


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Fun Scale Fury (oz15358) by John Rutter 1986 - model pic

  • (oz15358)
    Fun Scale Fury
    by John Rutter
    from Radio Modeller
    March 1986 
    32in span
    Scale IC R/C Biplane
    clean :)
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 10/06/2024
    Filesize: 517KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: Circlip, RFJ
    Downloads: 361

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