Mini Sunduster (oz15323)

About this Plan

Mini Sunduster. Free flight sport model, for CO2 or electric power.

The 88 inch Jerry Brofman Sunduster (oz3401) design was first published in MAN, August 1942. This here is a later reduced-scale version, for CO2 or electric power.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 31/5/2024: Added kit instructions and printwood scan, thanks to AdrianCulf.

Quote: "The Sunduster is a lesser known model from about 1940, but one that did quite well in competition back then. As a high winged model, the wing mount area has been carefully designed as a clean intersection, marred only by the usual rubber bands. The engine was mounted inverted and fully cowled, in an attempt at minimizing drag. In its full size configuration, the model spans 88; our model is considerably smaller, but nearly all of the full size structure is represented. As a result, we end up with a small model with a large number of pieces, and one that retains the charm and graceful lines of the original plane.

Begin by cutting out the wing ribs and tip pieces. Rather than cut spar notches in each rib separately, pin the ribs together in a stack lined up on the leading edge notches. The stack can be sanded to establish a uniform rib shape, and the rib notches can be made with a sharp, thin file or a hacksaw blade. Pin down the tip pieces and glue them together. Notch the trailing edge (TE) and pin it down. Fit the ribs in place, leaving out the dihedral and polyhedral break ribs, plus the other two-piece ribs for now. With ribs in place, add the upper spar.

Carefully saw the wing panels apart and sand the tip/main panel mating edges to match the polyhedral angles. Glue this joint and add the spar braces and the missingribs. Repeat for the center section, and remove the wing from the board. Add the 2 piece ribs at the center and polyhedral breaks, the lower spars and the fill-in sheeting on the top.

The stabilizer is made using rectangular strips for ribs; sand to shape after they are in place.

The body is built using a 1940s standard - the crutch, with formers above and below, plus stringers. Begin by making the crutch of 1/16 x 1/8 on the topview. Erect the two upright sticks and add the 1/8 sq lower stringer plus the block ahead of it. Add each pair of angled uprights. Remove the crutch from the board and add the motor mount and upper formers. The stringers will come out straighter if you cut notches for them after the formers are glued on. Add the stringers and the sheet fill in front of the wing.

Tack glue a very soft block on the front for the cowl. Carve and sand to shape. Remove the cowl and hollow it out to clear the motor. Fit the wing to the saddle and make up the fairing blocks that are glued to the wing.

The model in the photos is powered by the new HiLine direct drive motor. With a little care in trimming, the HiLine suggested motor mount can be used, and the cowl will cover all. A piece of 1/32 ply is installed right behind the motor mount (left side of model is you are right handed) for the charging jack. HiLine cleverly designed their system to eliminate the switch; when the charging plug is pulled, the motor starts. A switch is present in the charger circuit, however, which permits timed charging.

The Sunduster is also suited for CO2 or rubber power; see the plan for additional details of motor mounts and other necessary conversion steps. Many types and sizes of CO2 motors can be used from the Brown A23 up through the 100 cu. mm. and the Telco (non-Turbo type). Rubber power will require a bit longer landing gear to clear the 7 in prop..."

Supplementary file notes

Instructions.
Printwood.

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