Fearless Fly (oz15229)

About this Plan

Fearless Fly. Control line stunt combat model. For Cox .049 engine.

Quote: "This maneuverable stunt and comabt model for the Cox 049 was designed and built by a junior. Fearless Fly, by Mitchell Blum

The Fearless Fly can be built in one day if you have made a few flying models before. It is inexpensive, using a mini-mum of materials. It is best to use new, lightweight balsa; but if you can build it mostly from material left overfrom one of Dad's big kits, you will need to buy a minimum of new materials.

The Fearless Fly can be used as trainer if the amount of elevator movement is limited. This restriction can be re-moved later, after you have gained confidence. The model will give you hours of fun in learning maneuvers or flying combat with fellow modelers.

Construction: The ribs are all the same, with the exception of rib numbers four and five. The rib pattern is obtained from the profile view of the plan. All ribs are cut full-size including the 1/16 deep notches for the leading and trailing edge planking. Note that tip ribs are 1/8 thick, while all others are 1/16 thick. This double thickness at the tips will reinforce the wing, and the thick rib will not bend when the covering material dries. Select two of the 1/16 ribs as ribs four and five. Remove an additional 1/16 wide strip from the top and bottom of these ribs so that the ribs match the dotted lines when laid on the profile view. This will permit the 1/16 center planking to align with the airfoil, and match the leading and trailing edge planking when assembled.

Next, cut the 1/4 square leading edge to length, also the 1/16 sheet for the leading and trailing edges. Lay these pieces on the plan and, with pencil, mark the exact rib loca-tions. The main section of the wing can now be glued to-gether. Pin one of the 1/16 trailing edge pieces over the plan on a flat working surface. Use wax paper to prevent sticking to the plans. Pin all ribs in place on the trailing edge. Position the leading edge on the ribs, pinning them at each position. Now glue all of the joints.

While this section Is drying, the stabilizer and booms can be cut and sanded. Note that the stabilizer must be notched to accept the extreme end of the booms and that a 1/16 hole must be drilled in the end of the booms to allow for the 1/16 diameter wire hinges..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

Article, thanks to Mary.

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