RTP Electric Racer (oz15227)

About this Plan

RTP Electric Racer. All-sheet indoor RTP model, for electric power.

Quote: "THE POPULARITY of indoor electric round the pole flying continues to grow in both schools and model clubs throughout the country. Many types of model are possible from simple all-sheet balsa profile models to detailed scale models, often converted from commercial kits. The RTP electric racers described here in plan form offers a reasonable intermediate stage, being both straightforward and robust in construction and realistic and appealing in flight - and if two or more club mates build models, a little RTP racing adds fun.

ASSEMBLY Commence by transferring outlines of parts with the aid of a ball point pen and greaseproof paper, trace all parts onto balsa sheet with carbon paper. With a sharp knife cut out all parts including slots for wing, tailplane, fin and rudder, which should be sanded to an aerofoil section. Bend undercarriage wire to shape, then sew and cement to small former between wing and fuselage.

Cut a small slot in fuselage to accommodate undercarriage wire (see plan). Cement parts A and B together and parts C and D, followed by one fuselage side. You then have a box assembly, add a small piece of 1/8 balsa as a former, near the joint of C and D, a slot will be required in front of the former. Add the wing, sliding it through the slot, cement well, then add the second fuselage side.

It is advisable to make the tailplane with adjustable elevators, this is done by cutting slots in the edge of the balsa, and hinging using strips of thin aluminium from a soft drink can pushed into slots and cemented well. Add fin and cement rudder at an offset angle. This will help to turn the plane outwards in flight and keep the flying lines tight (see trimming and flying). A small piece of balsa will be required to fill the gap between the tailplane and fuselage.

Cut two pieces of 1/32 ply and sand the wing tips down until the ply fits well, then drill a small hole 5/8 in in from the leading edge of the wing and fit a small loop of nylon thread through the hole as a tether loop.

The motor can now be push-fitted into the fuselage, the small hole near the undercarriage legs will accommodate the motor wires. Cement well, and add cockpit canopy. Finally add wheels and undercarriage fairings and spats. Sand model smooth, sanding seal and tissue cover model, and paint finish.

The type of electric motors used by the author are from the following manufacturers Mabuchi or Johnson, both made in Japan. Propeller size for this model is Cox 3 x 1-1/2 in. Wiring of the motors should not cause any problems, using good small soldering iron and thin electric flex as used for model railways.

Various methods are used by different clubs, to attach the motor leads to the flying line. I use dressmaking snap fasteners size 11 mm. Male ones soldered to the motor leads. All motors must be kept ventilated to avoid overheating.

TRIMMING AND FLYING: The model, when finally finished with paint work and decorations, has to be trimmed and adjusted for flight. To balance the model, tie a piece of thin cord onto the tether hook, and suspend the model to see how it hangs. The correct balance is when the model hangs horizontal without the nose or tail dipping. Add Plasticene or lead as required. When the model has been balanced, it will then be ready for a test flight.

Connect the tether line (nylon) to the hook on the vying tip. Never fly with the tether hook disconnected. Check rotation of the propeller is anti clockwise and reverse the motor leads, or change the plug round at the controller power unit if necessary to achieve this. Check wheels for free running and most important, with the plane in your hands, walk round the perimeter of the flying circle to make sure your model is clear from hitting any object etc.

Control with a hand controller plugged into the power unit, by pressing the knob to increase the speed of the motor. Slowly increase the model speed as the model taxis round for a couple of laps until the plane lifts off the ground. If the model does not run smoothly and turns in towards the flying pole, you can angle the undercarriage legs outwards away from the flying pole. Also check rudder offset and adjust the elevators up or down to achieve correct flight trim.

All flying equipment, motors, accessories used by the author are from the Harry Butler range of Electric RIP equipment available from your local KeilKraft stockist or send to them for a guide and catalogue to Electric RTP flying price 50p from KeilKraft Ltd, Russell Gardens, Wickford, Essex.

The cost of building this model is very reasonable. The most expensive item is the electric motor, plus two sheets of balsa, pieces from the scrap box and a pair of wheels 1 in diameter, so get started on your own RTP Electric Racer."

Supplementary file notes

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