Mini Whizz (oz15137)

About this Plan

Mini Whizz. Radio control sport delta model. Tractor prop layout.

Quote: "Free Pro Plan. Looking for some low-cost, lifgtweight fun? Brian Cooper presents his latest fag packet flier, Mini Whiz.

Have you ever been to one of those model shows, seen all sorts of exotic models speeding around the sky in seemingly endless climbs, and deep down inside thought - Cor! Yes please! - only to realise that the power needed is going to be prohibitively expensive and hat 'her indoors' might not view your new engine and pipe purchase in quite the same way as you! Of course, you could try the time-honoured method of smuggling new goodies into the house by attaching a 'FIRST PRIZE IN THE CLUB RAFFLE' sticker. However, luckily for you, there's an equally cunning alternative: Simply build our lightweight Mini Whizz delta which goes very respectably on a humble OS 25FP and goes like 'stinky poo' on an MVVS 28 with a pipe (Moon, here I come!). Any sort of power between these two engines will get the adrenaline flowing and will give you those long climbs which look so impressive.

This little delta has been designed for high performance but with economy in mind. As a result, the basic structure can be knocked up for very little expense, and you don't need to buy special mini or micro servos and receivers as it'll take standard size radio with ease.

Initially it was conceived to fly indoors at the yearly bash at Olympia and the first models were powered with an MVVS 12 plus a mini pipe and built very light indeed. However, although the performance indoors was wonderful it lacked a certain something when flown outside and a more powerful version was needed, which in turn required the model to be completely sheeted top and bottom to take the extra flight loads and stiffen the wing to stop it flexing as the speeds built up, If you're planning on using only a small amount of power (up to a .15) you can get away with sheeting just the centre section.

The wing, elevons and fins are made from medium grade 3/16 balsa and the sheeting is 1/32 balsa. The fuselage is constructed from 3/32 balsa with 1/64 ply for the base and floor, and 1/8 liteply for the former to bolt the engine mount to.

Construction is fairly straightforward - let's face it, there isn't much of it - and can be completed in a couple of evenings. The main points to watch out for are to ensure that the joints are all a good snug fit and not loose and floppy- If you get a piece wrong, it's better to do it again rather than fill the gaps with glue.

With twin fin deltas it's ESSENTIAL that the fuselage and fins are all exactly in line and at 90 degrees (in plan) to the wing's trailing edge. The fins must be parallel to each other or you may encounter some interesting handling problems.

The fins on the original model were mounted 90 degrees vertical to the wing but subsequent versions have had them leaning outwards a little which makes the finished model look a bit 'meaner' without altering the handling characteristics.

The fuselage sides can be made from one piece of wood or split into top half and bottom half, the 'bump at the front' being butt joined. This method will give you a natural guide line to work to when gluing the fuselage box to the wing and it will ensure the wing is attached level on both sides. As with all models the more accurately you build them the better they fly so take care to get everything square.

The front former is made from 1/8 liteply and the engine is mounted so that the exhaust exits under the wing. This will keep the 'goo' off the servos, which are exposed at the rear of the wing. The second former (F2) is also liteply and is positioned to suit your chosen fuel tank. A 4 oz SLEC tank was used on the original. The remaining formers are all balsa and it's not that critical where they're placed but I would suggest putting one in just behind the CG, as this is where you'll be holding the model for launching... "

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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