Baby Barnstormer (oz15098)
About this Plan
Trixter Baby Barnstormer. Control line stunt model. Wingspan 23-1/2 in, for 1/2A engines.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Quote: "Hoy There! Here is a fun one, I ran across this kit just this AM at a little swap meet. It is the 'Baby' version of the Barnstormer by Lou Andrews, kitted by Guillow's. 23.5" span, 1/2a control-liner. Plans, instructions, parts, the whole shebang. Cheers, Dave"
Update 8/2/2024: Added kit review from MAN, Aug 1951, thanks to Pit.
Quote: "We Test: the Baby Barnstormer. By Don Grout.
Model Airplane News believes that an honest series of kit report articles can be written. For true reader service, these reports will be prepared only after a kit has been constructed and tested in flight.
The Baby Barnstormer is designed primarily as an AA stunt model that, despite its small size, will do the complete pattern with ease. Our test model proved a good, stable flyer. If you are interested in trying a few maneuvers, half the answer is having a plane that 'can.' The Baby can!
This plane is designed for the .049's which is the ideal size, but with the construction and design, an .035 or .039 should kick it around without any trouble if you keep it light and go easy on the dope. Don't hesitate on an .065 or .074 either; it has the wing area and flyability to take it.
The wing span is 23-1/2 in, average wing chord about 5-1/8, total area 118 square inches, and the wing section (widest part of rib) about 15 per cent of the wing chord, all of which makes for good area and lift. Length overall is 15 in, less spinner shown, and the weight is given as approximately 4-1/2 oz. Our test model weighed in at 4 oz -8 grains, less tank, prop and engine; and just under 6 oz complete and ready to fly.
The kit is well worked out for lightness and easy construction. All parts necessary are die stamped and they fit with practically no sanding and shaping. The spars, wing planking and tail are selected wood which is the key to strength and fewer repairs.
For anyone who has built the A-B, B-C Trixters or Barnstormer, the Baby Barnstormer plans are equally detailed. For those that haven't, there's enough information in the full size layout and detailed drawings in themselves to build the ship without the written instructions. The answers to 99 per cent of the questions you might have on construction are there if you'll just study the plans. This kit details the Jim Walker U-Control system.
Notes on construction will be brief and confined to certain points. If you feel that a plywood bellcrank might wear a little quicker than metal, a bushed bellcrank is just so much insurance against loosening bellcranks and crack-ups. We had an old Veco small bellcrank and cut it down to the size in the plan, bushed the bushing with two pieces of brass tubing, one 5/32 OD and one 1/8 in OD inside - that to bring the hole size down in order to use a smaller bolt that wouldn't weaken the main spar. Kap-Pak makes a bushed infant bellcrank No. 10 that is just about the right size.
Flexible lead-out wires were used which were ends of an old set of 70-foot lines cut down to 60's. It was not necessary to cut the opening in the leading edge planking as called for, which would make for more strength in the wing. It's a good idea to watch out for warping of the trailing edge, particu-larly if you like to put on your covering wet, If you're an old free fighter you'll know what I mean. In using the tissue wet, I found it advisable to keep the wing weighed down at the front and the trailing edge pinned to a board while the water dried and also while being doped. Put a coat on one side, let it dry, then work the other side the same way - back and forth, and it comes out fine.
If you are a counter-clockwise flier, as I am, and want to convert the model keep in mind: 1. Draw in on the plan, the four center ribs Offset to the opposite side of the center line before starting the wing layout (don't forget on this ship the inside wing is larger than the outside); 2. Reverse trailing edges; 3. Reverse the ribs, ribs with the controline holes on the opposite side; 4. Reverse the bell-crank and controline tubes and run the control lines out the opposite end of the wing; 5. Reverse the outboard weight; 6. Reverse nose laminations with fire wall notches and fire wall so the engine will be offset toward the outside of the circle..."
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