Domino (oz15088)


Domino (oz15088) by John Watters 1984 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Domino. Control line flying wing trainer model, for 1.5 cc engines.

Quote: "Build this simple, rugged control-line flying wing trainer for 1.5 cc engines. Domino, by John Watters.

This model is the result of my son requsting that he would like to learn to fly control-line models. As it was, the only control-line models I had were not really suitable for a beginner to practice on, so a search was made through my plans collection for a typical beginner's model. The power was to come from the only engine I had which was big enough, namely an old DC Sabre.

The model was duly built, flown and in a short time broken - but the wings of the model remained intact. The elevator was removed and re-sewn back on again to the trailing edge of the wing. A quick simple engine pod was made up and glued onto the front of the wing and we were airborne once again - with a scratchy looking combat style flying wing, which actually flew better than the original! Inevitably this modified flying wing was destroyed but some very useful practice had been achieved.

The design of the Domino is then a result of all the parts assembled together from the previous models but this time, as a 'Combat' style model with all the necessary modifications.

Building: With a model of this type which will inevitably receive many knocks, choice of wood is important, hard balsa being a must for the leading edge. Start by cutting out the 1/16 ply and 3/8 balsa sheet engine pod pieces, these should then be glued together along with the engine bearers and the 3/8 sheet fill-in.

A strong glue such as epoxy, PVA or even one of the many contact adhesives should be used to glue these pieces together (I used PVA white glue for the remainder of the model). When all the pod pieces have been assembled they should be put aside to set, preferably on a flat surface and a heavy weight placed on top to keep all the pieces flat whilst setting.

Start building the wing by first cutting out the trailing edge from stiff 1/8 sheet balsa and from the dimensions shown on the drawing, mark onto the trailing edge the position for each wing rib. Cut the wing ribs from stiff 3/32 sheet balsa and the centre rib from 3/8 balsa sheet. All the wing ribs on the inboard side of the model should have suitable slots cut in, to allow the lead-out lines to pass through. (The position of each slot should be cut out to suit the lead-out line position.)

Next glue together the 1/8 ply bellcrank mounting plate (which should already be drilled to suit the 6BA bolt), into the 3/8 thick centre rib, and rib R1. This assembly should now be pinned down and the trailing edge glued into the slots in the ribs. The remaining wing ribs can now be added onto the trailing edge, and the whole structure pinned down onto your building board, making sure that the ribs are square to the trailing edge.

When the wing has set, the 1/2 square leading edge can be added along with the 1/8 sheet tips and corner fillets. The wing can now be removed from your building board and the leading edge shaped to the section shown and the whole wing generally sanded smooth.

The bellcrank complete with pushrod and lead-out lines can now be fitted, not forgetting to add the lead-out guide tubes and the outer wing-tip weight. The fuel tank can now also be fitted. I used a commercial wedge tank but modified the engine feed pipe to come up over the leading edge. Whichever type of tank you fit, it should be glued in between the wing ribs as shown using scrap balsa packing.

The wing centre section can be covered either in 1/16 balsa sheet or thin cardboard (cornflake packet thickness or slightly thicker). Whichever type of covering you choose, first cut out the slots to take the push rod and the holes for the fuel tank vents and glue into position onto the wing ribs.

The engine pod can now be drilled to suit your particular engine and the whole pod generally shaped and sanded smooth. The engine pod can either be fitted to the wing before or after covering, either way covering of the model is best done with lightweight nylon. A tissue covered model will not usually stand up to the knocks!

Finishing and flying: Before covering the model it should be given two coats of thinned clear dope, rubbing down smooth after each coat. The nylon is attached to the structure by using a thinned down dope mixture, which should be brushed through the nylon onto the model and the nylon liberally pinned in place until each section is dry.

When the model has been covered it should be given at least three coats of thinned 50/50 clear dope over the entire airframe, or as many coats as are required to fill the weave.

The elevator should now be attached to the trailing edge by sewing on with strong thread - the elevator need only be covered with lightweight tissue and doped to a smooth finish.

The model is now ready to decorate to your choice but remember if you are using any form of paint or dope finish, do thin it down. The entire model should now be given a coat of either fuel proofer, or polyurethane varnish.

Fitting the engine mounting plate shown in the sketch is important if you are using an engine whose needle valve has to point downwards. Without this plate the needle valve assembly will probably not withstand the first landing! When fitting the engine remember to pack up the front of the mounting lugs with washers, to give the engine some side thrust.

The model was flown using 32 foot lightweight lines and it flew as they say off the board. I am sure in the right hands this model is capable of almost all manoeuvres."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Quote: "Dear Steve and Mary. Some weeks ago, I was reading one back issue of Aeromodeller magazine, the October of 1984 issue, downloaded from HPA at: and I found there a litte C/L flying wing plan: 'Domino', powered by a 1.5cc engine, and designed by John Watters. How I thought it's a interesting model, I got the plan and the article, and vectorized it. Now, I want to share it with the Outerzone community.
I made two variants of the plan: one as was published in the magazine, and
another with the wing drawn at full size (on the magazine was drawn at half
scale). As usual, I include the vector PDF, as well as, both CAD formats: DWG and DXF.
Greetings from your friend, Valeria367"

Supplementary file notes

VectorPDF plan tracing.
VectorPDF plan tracing (full size).

CAD file

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Domino (oz15088) by John Watters 1984 - model pic

  • (oz15088)
    by John Watters
    from Aeromodeller
    October 1984 
    20in span
    IC C/L
    clean :)
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 26/01/2024
    Filesize: 331KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap • PDFvector • CADfile
    Credit*: Valeria367, ilgk48
    Downloads: 104

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Download File(s):
  • Domino (oz15088)
  • Plan File Filesize: 331KB Filename: Domino_oz15088.pdf
  • Supplement Filesize: 306KB Filename: Domino_oz15088_article.pdf
  • Supplement Filesize: 179KB Filename: Domino_oz15088_vector.pdf
  • Supplement Filesize: 190KB Filename: Domino_oz15088_vector_fullsize.pdf
  • CAD Zip Filesize: 169KB Filename:
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* Credit field

The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.


This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.


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