Fokker DVIII (oz15085)
About this Plan
Fokker DVIII. Radio control scale model of the German WWI fighter. Wingspan 39.5 in, for electric power with geared 400 motor.
Quote: "Fokker DVIII. One of a series of small models of aircraft of WWI, designed by Peter Rake for geared 400 electric power and three function control.
Yes, I know this series contains as many monoplanes as biplanes, but no range of WWI aircraft would be complete without what was considered, by some, to be the ultimate fighter design of that conflict.
The DVIII was undoubtedly a first class fighter and would definitely have replaced the DVII in service had WWI continued beyond Nov 1918. So perhaps it was just as well that the EV (the DVIIIs predecessor) had to be withdrawn from the front. I have seen the authorities blamed for the problem by changing the spar specification, but I am more inclined to believe the 'shoddy manufacture' version of events, the wing spars being planed away until they fitted. Hardly the most desirable solution, even on a model, especially since as much as half of the spar material was being removed in some cases. Is it any wonder that wing failures were common?
With this model, there is an alternative to the dreaded (complicated) lozenge fabric finish, since it was used by several other countries after the war. Personally however, I feel it is well worth the effort to apply at least some lozenge areas as this seems to give more the right 'feel' to the model. That could just be down to the fact that I think the alternative colour schemes are on the drab side.
Equipment: As with most of the other models in this series, this one is designed around the excellent Graupner 2:33/1 geared Speed 400 motor/gearbox unit. These units have proven ideal for models of the type that I favour.
Control functions are provided by a HITEC Mini Rx, operating two of the 9g servos that are available from various companies and a Kontronic Easy 1000 speed controller. I have found this, or a similar, combination to be just about perfect. They are lightweight, small, very reliable and inexpensive. This latter point is always important to me. I'm just naturally tight I suppose. I simply cannot see any point in paying £40 or £50 for a speed controller if I can get one that will do all I need it to for £25. I have certainly have no complaints with the Kontronic ones I'm using, and I have seven of them.
The one item I wouldn't suggest trying to save a few pounds on is the Ni-Cad pack. I only use 500AR cells in my small models. I have used cheaper cells in the past but have been less than impressed with them. When you take into account how little the rest of the model is going to cost, it's worth paying a bit more for your Ni-Cads oin order to get the best performance from it.
Construction: As with al my models, I have tried to hkeep the construction as simple as I can. I'm not only tight, but lazy too it would seem. Simple models do, as a rule however, tend to be light models and light models fly better than heavy ones. They also usually come little down a lot more gently too.
So, to this end, don't be tempted I to beef up the structure at all. It has proven adequate, strong enough exactly as drawn. Only use the harder grades of balsa for such items as longerons and wing spars, with medium to soft wood being used for the rest of the model. Don't be to tempted to try to save weight on tail surfaces by using too soft wood, since this may well allow warps to creep in during the covering stage. With the weight of motor and Ni-Cad at the nose of the model, it is very unlikely to come out tail heavy. OK then, enough of the basics, on to the building.
Wings: Using 1/16 ply templates and the 'sandwich' method, make a left and right set of wing ribs and the set of ribs for the centre section. It is important that the wing rib sets are in fact 'handed' so be careful not to make both sets the same.
With the ribs cut, the actual building of the wing is all very straightforward and won't take long at all. The wing is built in three distinct stages as follows using a full span one-piece spar.
The centre section of the wing is built first, so start by pinning down the spar and trailing edge pieces, including the false trailing edge at the wing cut-out. Trim the ribs for the cut-out and retain the cut-off pieces. Now glue in place all the centre section ribs, ensuring that they are all perfectly upright. By not shortening the off-cut pieces of the wing cut-out ribs, they will be long enough to allow for the angle they go in at. The leading edge may now be glued in place, followed by the Liteply wing mounting plates. Allow this assembly to dry thoroughly before proceeding..."
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ScaleType: This (oz15085) is a scale plan. Where possible we link scale plans to Wikipedia, using a text string called ScaleType.
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User commentsIt appears Peter took a few liberties with this plan. He neglected to check the RC-Library 3-views (see 'test link' above), otherwise he would not make the fuselage that fat, nor put the parasol wing that high up, and the engine cowling could have a bigger radius. These are odd as Mr Rake's scale designs usually are on the faithful side, I expect he was experimenting with something and needed a 'quick and dirty' build.
Miguel - 06/02/2024
If you look under the designer's name, there is another D-7 plan at 42" span from 2012, this one seems to be a scaled down of that plan. As for apparent size discrepancies, three views can be off depending on what the person developing it used for information. Even one from the aircraft company can be off in dimension somewhat.
Douglas Babb - 06/02/2024
Thanks for reminding me of the oz12213 plan, I find it much better looking than this one. I am aware that 3-views may contain pitfalls. One certain 3v of this Fokker D8 shows distances between fuselage stations, but the total length is a different value than the sum of its parts. To maintain sanity, I suggest we agree that some drawings may be more reliable than others.
But going back to the original argument, the photos gave me the impression that the shape was off. If I were to look for a D8 plan, I would look for an alternative to this one.
Miguel - 07/02/2024
Most of the designs by Peter were stand-off or sports scale so I don't think the model being very scale was the priority, probably designed as a 3 channel sports model with a bit off a scale look. I think it's a pretty model.
Madhukar - 08/02/2024
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