NA AT-6 (oz15082)

About this Plan

NA AT-6. Radio control sport scale model. Wingspan 72 in, for Enya .60 engine.

Quote: "AT-6. Semi-scale. 72 in span. Designed and drawn by Don Carkhuff. Redrawn by Joe Demarco 6-92."

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Update 1/2/2024: Added article, thanks to theshadow.

Quote: "AT-6 Texan, by Don Carkhuff and Ed Price.

The North American AT-6 lends itself to modeling a fine semi-scale multi craft with looks and per-formance. This bird was the training mount for many readers and was used extensively by the Army, Navy and RCAF during WW II. Requires no more time than the usual pattern bird to construct.

Scale model building, to me, is the greatest challenge in any type of flying models. But semi-scale, or sport scale models, are appealing when building strictly for fun: they combine good sport flying with scale appearance.

Building the AT-6 Texan was a relaxing experience for eliminating the disciplined approach that is so necessary for scale building, made the model 'fly' together. The model is large, with 790 square inches of wing area. The finish will require the most effort

The AT-6 Texas is an easy subject to build this way. The swept wing leading edge, wheel well fairings and large canopy are very identifiable features. Who would deny that the full scale plane was a large, rugged, beautiful aircraft?

The model can be built as the AT-6 Texan, SNJ Navy Trainer or RCAF Harvard, or it can be finished out in civilian colors of your choice. After working up a set of drawings, I cut parts for two models. Ed Price (my brother-in-law and partner in this hobby) assembled one with a silver doped finish and detailed it as an AT-6 gunnery trainer. My model was finished in chrome-yellow dope and represents the Navy's SNJ. Both models have all the panels marked out with india ink and covered with clear dope. Marking the panels this way adds a great deal of realism; it's like painting a picture in three dimension.

CONSTRUCTION: FUSELAGE: This is a relatively simple member and the three steps illustrated in the lower left hand corner of the drawing describes 90 percent of this assembly better than words. Once you have gotten this far, it is a simple matter to add the turtle decks and fairings.

The hardwood cowling illustrated might be a problem if you do not have a lathe. Cowlings on the original models are constructed this way. It could, however, be built up from balsa segments and sanded to shape. I would then recommend covering with fiberglass. There is always the old standby, an aluminum pot (MAN, Feb 1970 issue).

The engine is mounted on an angle so the Tatone muffler will clear the fuselage side. This type of installation is functional, adds to the appear-nce of the model and best of all it keeps the neighbors in a good mood. The canopy can be constructed as illustrated or it can be built from balsa with the windshield, etc., painted on. The yellow SNJ was assembled this way.

EMPENNAGE: The fin and rudder are simply cut from balsa sheet as shown and sanded to shape. The stabilizer is a little more involved but is still of simple construction. Following the three steps shown in the lower right hand corner of the drawing, build the framework flat on the drawing and when thoroughly dry, insert and rotate the hardwood spar into the correct position. This results in the symmetrical airfoil section desired without cutting and assembling the otherwise troublesome ribs.

The framework is then covered top and bottom with sheet. Add the tips, leading and trailing edges at this time. Some sandpaper and a block completes the job. The plywood insert in the elevator need not be assembled as shown if cutting the slot presents a problem. I would recommend building from three pieces of 1/8 thick sheet with the 1/8 ply insert sandwiched in the center. The fin and stabilizer can now be assembled together and the hold-down method added as illustrated..."

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