SE5a (oz14998)

About this Plan

SE5a. Radio control scale model WWI biplane fighter, for indoor flying. Wingspan 667 mm. For electric power with Wes-Technik DC-5 coreless motor and KP01 gearbox. Uses foam construction.

Quote: "A 26.25 in wingspan scale model for indoor RC flying, featuring all-foam construction. Model uses electric power and ultra-lightweight RC systems for rudder, elevator and motor speed controls. All main components white medium density foam with approx 3mm bead size, hot-wire cut to 3mm wall thickness."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 20/12/2023: Added article, thanks to RFJ.

Quote: "Have fun, and enjoy guaranteed perfect flying conditions. Indoor RC SE5a, by Ridgway.

The red Fokker Triplane really did rise majestically into the air: from the moment I saw the triplane of Mark and Simon of the Leicester Aeronutz fly at one of their indoor Oadby meetings, I realised that the means to fly a radio controlled scale model at a very realistic slow speed had finally arrived.

While the Leicester lads used their incredibly well developed '2mm wallpaper' foam techniques, I chose to use experience gained from previous indoor RC models, and used 'hot wired' white polystyrene foam - with what I consider to be exceptional results. Indeed, of all the R/C models which I have designed/built this model has probably given me the greatest pleasure, both in constructing and flying than any other model I have built!

Cutting the components uses conventional hot wire techniques and results not only in a lightweight model (bare airframe is approximately 28gm - 1oz!) but one of sufficient integrity that I feel is difficult to achieve with 2mm insulation foam.

You can just charge-up and go flying, the model looking most realistic in the air and being rewarding in the extreme to fly. Do try indoor RC in the winter at least - conditions are always perfect and the people great!

Construction: The secret of the model is partly in the use of MD (medium density) foam - just go along to your local insulation supplier (look in Yellow Pages) and ask for this. The best size is about 2-3mm thick, this cuts very well and when sanded gives a reasonable surface for painting. Use Lite-ply templates faced with 24 gauge piano wire, or do as I do and use thin strips of litho plate glued on the cutting surface.

For adhesives, use Bison (but check which one is suitable for foam: it used to be in an orange tube but now comes in a BLUE tube, most confusing!). Alternatively, use UHU 'Solvent Free' or 5 minute epoxy for high stress joints. You can use Zap '0' Cyano, but NOT ordinary cyano!

Basis of the model is the U-shaped channel which forms the lower fuselage 'chassis' which is then marked with the side template and cut with a No.11 scalpel blade (NEW!) to form the rear taper - which is then glued as shown in the photos. Foam formers are then added, just as you would in a conventional balsa model.

When the fuselage 'chassis' is assembled, add the 'hot wired' front and rear deckings to complete, then sand the surface using medium-grade silicon carbide finishing paper, easily obtainable from DIY stores - it is a light blue-grey in colour with a white pattern all over. Warning - use a foam sanding block, and only LIGHT pressure!

Wings are cut top first, which is then surface sanded. Next is the bottom cut: you will probably need a couple of attempts to get the correct thickness - each wing panel should weigh about 5g. Note the special section, with thickened leading and trailing edges: use a scalpel to cut to the plan shape, and sand the edges lightly.

The tailplane and fin are simply sliced from foam with light balsa tappings added. At hinge lines, I used thin strips of Dubro self-wicking hinges - but used RC Modellers glue to secure, not cyano. 1/8 in wide hinges are more then adequate.

The four balsa blocks in the fuselage are to support the cabane struts and undercarriage, as shown on the plan: 0.4mm discs of ply are used at interplane struts at the positions shown.

Before final assembly, arrange the servos, motor, receiver, etc, to get the balance point correct. To do this, tape the model together before final gluing.

After final assembly it is ESSENTIAL to rig the model with fine thread, as shown. Easiest way is to use a cocktail stick with thin cyano to secure - after wrapping thread around the base of the struts, etc. DO TAKE CARE not to melt the foam, if in doubt of your ability use RC Modellers glue..."

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