PZL P.38 Wolf (oz14939)
About this Plan
PZL P.38 Wolf. Radio control sport-scale model of the Polish prototype twin heavy fighter. Wingspan 66 in, for 2x .48 four-stroke engines.
Quote: "Sport-scale version of a little-known Polish fighter bomber. PZL P.38 Wolf, by Roy Day.
I FIRST SAW a picture of the PZL-P38 Wolf fighter bomber in an old 1959 issue of Air Progress magazine, It was developed by Poland between 1938 and 39. Only two prototypes were built: one was flown, and both were destroyed during the German invasion of Poland in September 1939. I liked the lines of the P38 and thought it would make an interesting twin. A little later during the project, I struck up a correspondence with Polish modeler Piotr Zawada, who furnished me with a 3-view and some photos of the PZL-P38. The aircraft probably would have been good as a ground-attack fighter, but it could only carry a couple of small bombs under its wings. It has some interesting lines and is certainly not frequently modelled, if ever.
WING: For a conventional twin such as the PZL-P38, the most complicated part is the wing, which has the engines, nacelles, landing gear and fuel-system plumbing in addition to the usual servos and control linkages. The airfoil is flat from the trailing edge (TE) to the forward bottom spar, so you can build the wing flat on your board.
Make the forward spar by laminating two 1/8 x 1/4-inch spruce or basswood pieces as shown on the plan. Make the spar caps long enough to extend onto the wingtips for added strength. Lay your ribs on the plan, and mark the hole locations for the aileron control cables and throttle cables and the pressure and fuel lines for the engines. Don't trap yourself by installing the wing sheeting without first installing these Iines and cables.
Lay down the 1/16-inch TE sheeting and both lower spar caps. Jig up the TE at the tip rib, R-9, 1/4 inch to give about 2 degrees of washout. Glue in all ribs except the center rib. Put into place but don't glue it until later, when you are ready to join the wing halves. This is necessary because you are building on the tapered bottom of the wing, and when you assemble the wing upside-down on a flat surface (no dihedral), you want those center ribs to fit together perfectly. Now add the top spar caps, one of the leading-edge (LE) laminations, aileron hinge blocks and horn plate and the shear webs. Now you can glue on the TE sheeting.
Remove the panel from your board, and build the other panel to this same stage. Join the wing panels upside-down on a flat surface. Pull both center ribs together to make a good joint, and glue them to their respective wing panels. Chances are, if you had glued them in earlier, they would not fit exactly.
Glue the carbon-fiber strip on the bottom of the forward spar cap. Now glue in the bottom LE sheeting, and turn the joined wing over to the upright position. Add the carbon-fiber reinforcement to the top of the main spar. With your lines and control cables in place, you can now put on the top LE sheeting in one continuous piece across the center joint to make the wing stronger. Fill in the remaining sheeting as shown on the plan, and add the rib caps. Add carbon strips on top of the sheeting at the LE and TE as shown on the plan. Cut out the ailerons and face the openings with 1/16 sheet. Add 2-ounce fiberglass cloth and resin out past the nacelles as indicated on the plan. Glue on the wingtips and the remaining laminations for the LE, and sand to shape. Set the completed wing aside.
You may be wondering if I've forgotten the dihedral braces; there are none, as they are not needed. For this thick wing, at the root, the needed strength comes from the continuous skin, plus the fiberglass cloth, plus the carbon-fiber reinforcements. I can vouch for its strength because a nasty crash broke only the wingtip. You don't need dihedral braces on this wing..."
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ScaleType: This (oz14939) is a scale plan. Where possible we link scale plans to Wikipedia, using a text string called ScaleType.
If we got this right, you now have a couple of direct links (above) to 1. see the Wikipedia page, and 2. search Oz for more plans of this type. If we didn't, then see below.
ScaleType is formed from the last part of the Wikipedia page address, which here is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PZL.38_Wilk
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User commentsThanks for the plan, made my day.
Madhukar - 21/11/2023
This is not PZL -38 Wilk it is PZL-48 Lampart that was updated version of Wilk. Wilk was equipped with V-12 Foka engine, and Lampart was equipped with radial engine.
Mirek - 21/11/2023
Mirek... Your observation appears to be incorrect. Look closely at the photos in the magazine article and in the Wikipedia link. The nacelles were plump enough to be confused as to be housing a radial engine, but no. It appears that the designer of the model didn't get the contours of the nacelles quite right, but nevertheless, the sides are vertically straight (see plan) and is NOT completely round.
RC Yeager - 21/11/2023
Also, upon further scrutiny of the plan and photos on the internet, it appears that the designer never intended this model to be "exact" scale, but rather a standoff or sport scale interpretation, as there are quite a few details that differ considerably from the real thing.
RC Yeager - 21/11/2023
Mirek - I'm sure you're right about the finer details of difference between the Wilk and the Lampart. You definitely know more about Polish planes than me! But the plan is not meant to be an exact scale replica of any plane, it's just a "sport-scale" version of the PZL P.38 Wilk. It's the designer being inspired by the Wilk to create his own version, rather than trying to copy it.
Mary - 22/11/2023
Mary, so nice to 'see' you :)
This is not a standoff scale model, but rather a standwaywayoff scale. Scale judges should apply a modified '3 meters' rule, using 300 meters and no binoculars instead.
Miguel - 23/11/2023
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