Viva (oz14729)

About this Plan

Viva. Radio control sport biplane model. For .25 to .5o engines.

Quote: "Got a clear building board? Then try this pretty sporting biplane, designed to accept a wide range of power units. Viva, by Adrian Britton.

Viva is ideal for someone with aileron trainer experience. Structurally straightforward, although requiring some accuracy during building, she's easily transportable fully assembled with just four plastic bolts and slot-in struts. She's loads of fun to aerobat though docile and stable, economical on a .40'ish four-stroke, and above all, she's pretty.

I enjoyed creating 'Lyra' (RCM&E, Nov 1993), and the prototype has been flying since in the capable hands of a venerable club colleague. I began to miss bipe type fun, so I materialised 'Viva' - a little smaller with the same OS 40 Surpass, and turned up with it one afternoon at the club field. "Why didn't you design this instead of the other 'funny one'?" somebody asked. "I'd have had one of these." Well, he can now -as long as he does it proper like (as we say round 'ere!)

Get cracking: I won't go into vast constructional detail here - all the information you need is on the plan and there's nothing too complicated. From the pictures of the prototype Viva you may detect the tail is built-up 'ribby' style. This meant more lead, so is simplified on the plan. Viva may tend towards being tail heavy, so take all precautions with your building and installations.

The dural undercarriage was from Southern Modelcraft and sawn in half to widen. The little plastic aileron links and the tailwheel bracket used in my designs are from Phil Ramsey. I usually buy my wood from Flair who have the basswood spar material and Liteply (often!). Spruce here is fine. I use stripped Liteply for spars as long as in conjunction with spar webs. I don't break wings in the air. If sat on, the break is at least easier to cut away and repair!

Wings: Build these first to aid rigging up during fuselage construction. The plan notes and sketches tell all here. Use a couple of ribs to locate the false trailing edge before pinning it down. Pieces of spar are used to join the spars before adding the brace and web to the centre section. 'Spar' is used all over the place leaving plenty for paint stirring!

When the basic structures are complete, add the gussets, remove from the board and fit all the lower cap strips and central sheeting. Return the wing to the board and fit all the webs. Sand them flush with the top spar. Saw the ribs away to accommodate the dihedral brace. The top sheeting can now be added, leaving the section centre clear. Make the locator tongue a tight fit but only glue in when mated to the fuselage accurately later.

The rest of the jobs - wing tips, cap strips, trailing edges, servo mounting, rods and central sheeting to rear - finish the work. Make up the ailerons ready to top-hinge. It's a little tricky, but I use good quality Sellotape before covering, with a thin coat of dried, smoothed down glue where the contact is made. This is the easy part. Covering the attached surfaces takes a little worthwhile care. I used to top hinge using the covering, but landing with one aileron windmilling in the breeze... "

Viva from Radio Modeller, November 1996.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, thanks to RFJ.

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction