About this Plan
Voltsjager. Radio control sport parasol model. Wingspan 55-1/2 in, for electric power with 540 motor with belt drive.
Quote: "A 56 inch span sports model designed for low-cost electrics and four function radio control. Voltsjager, by Peter Rake.
This model started out, as do so many of mine, as a small sketch in a notepad. I've always been something of a 'doodler', starting off with the proportions I want the model to be, and then join them up in various different configurations. I personally find it very relaxing, and have created more model designs than I'm ever likely to be able to build, but to me the designing is every bit as enjoyable as the building.
Not being one for overly-complicated models, I like to sort out the easiest way of doing things, which means lots more sketching. Voltsjaeger is designed to be an easy to fly and mildly aerobatic model for basic electric power, so nothing complicated or expensive is involved.
It uses a belt drive reduction system and only a slightly up-market 540 motor. Just a seven cell power pack is used, which means a cheap style of charger is fine, and then we're in business. The most expensive item is likely to be the speed controller at around £35.
I used mini or micro servos in the prototype model, but I dare say standard sized ones would do. However, if you are becoming serious about flying with electric power it is worth investing in some mini servos. They are not that expensive these days and will certainly help you to keep the weight of the model down.
With my model set up as indicated, I regularly get flights in excess of 10 minutes, which is long enough for me.
Construction of the model is far too simple to require step-by-step instructions. If you do need them, then I would think that maybe another kit or two first would be a better idea. Having said that, the only jobs that need special care are the undercarriage and strut bending, plus the planking of the top nose decking.
Do remember at all times that the ever present enemy of successful electric flight is WEIGHT. Never be tempted to beef-up the structure at all. It doesn't need it, and you don't need the extra weight! By and large, electric power puts far less stress on an airframe than an IC engine. There are no starting stresses, no vibration - no fuel seepage. All points in our favour. Enough of the basics, and on with the model.
Construction: I would suggest that the front fuselage sides be laminated from two layers of 3/32 balsa - I say this because I used 3/16 sheet and had the very devil of a job to pull them in at the nose! If you don't glue the laminations together forward of F2 until you are ready to pull them in at the front, it will make life a lot easier for you. You also gain the benefit of the curves being locked-in once the glue has dried.
The 1/8 ply motor mount plate and strut plate should be pinned down, and both the sides and the formers added upside-down over the plan. Allow to dry before pulling the nose in to prevent the sides from bowing. Once the front end is finished, make the rear built-up section, and then once dry join the two parts. Again, perform this task upside-down over the plan.
The motor will need to be installed before finishing off the front end. Fit the belt-drive unit dropped in from above and screw in place before fitting the motor. It's quite easy to get at during this stage. Don't forget to add the motor wiring before fitting the lower nose block and the planking.
I don't intend to insult you by telling you how to build the wings and tail surfaces - it is all very obvious from the plan. However, here's my advice on drilling the holes for the wing fixing screws. Place the wing upside-down on a flat surface, then position the fuselage over it, also upside down. When you are fully satisfied that they are accurately lined-up, mark the hole positions onto the ply mount plates. Now even if your struts weren't quite accurate, the wing fixing should be!
The prototype model was covered with Solarfilm, and all the national markings shown are available commercially. The ones I used are from Flair, and so are available through any good model shop - same is true of the dural strip for the struts.
Flying: This should present no problems at all: mine will rise-off-ground from our grass strip easily, needing only a very short run before the wheels get clear. It will fly quite happily at low throttle settings, in fact mine only needs the throttle trim open to keep stooging around!
Loops from level flight are simple, and the rolls (even if a bit barrelly) are just as easy. As for the stall - indeed, if you can get it to stall - is a complete non-event.
I suggest that you set up the rudder with plenty of throw since on the glide, it doesn't affect things very quickly. Better still, keep some power in reserve for lining up with the landing strip, and then throttle right back just before touching down.
All in all, a very nice model to fly, and a pretty one at that. If you're thinking of trying electric flight for the first time, this would be the perfect, trouble-free introduction. Remember, you'll keep your flying site when you fly quietly."
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 24/7/2023: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
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User commentsA 540? This must have been Peter's description for Old Timer :D
Miguel - 23/07/2023
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