Bicki Delta (oz14675)

About this Plan

Bicki Delta. Radio control delta pusher model. For single channel.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Quote: "Hello Mary and Steve, Herewith the plan for the very successful 1950's Rudder-only Bicki Delta by Alfred Bickel.

Flying it, Alfred won the rudder-only class at the 1956 and 1957 European RC championships, then the same design won the championships again in 1959 at the hands of Eugen Setz.

With the plan are the original instructions in German and my translations into French and English. I have also translated the plans themselves. A few photos are also included, one of them [pic 003] a remaining original fuselage found in the attic of his grandfather by Alfred's grandson.

More about this exceptional model can be found on Facebook see:https://www.facebook.com/BickiDelta/ with photos of the build by Anton Loepfe here: https://www.facebook.com/anton.loepfe/photos and a discussion on RC Groups at: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3099728

Hoping to revive interest in this model, with my best modelling regards as always, Jean-Marie Piednoir."

Quote: "Building instructions: Bicki. The good flight characteristics of the "Bicki" caused me to work out its construction plan. With mixed feelings I started to build the first "Bicki". This had 46 dm2 wing area and was equipped with an Elfin 1.49 cm3 and had a flying weight of 1400 gr. However, since one could find more choice on the market with the 2.5 cm3 engine class, I decided to build the second "Bicki".

I decided to increase the area to 52 dm2 and to use a 2.5 cm3 engine.
Unfortunately, not all motors are equally suitable, because they are
in the vaccum zone of the propeller. However, if you lengthen the air intake
and direct its opening to the front (direction of flight), a lot of help can be obtained.

It is also advisable to use a motor with an indifferent running direction
direction, so that you can fly with standard propellers (running left or right).
When building the airframe, care must be taken that not too heavy wood is used.

Fuselage: First, the two side parts of the fuselage are built. The upper longitudinal stringers are best cut out of a 3/8" board according to plan, since they have to be bent quite a bit. Of course, these can also be glued together lengthwise from two or more pieces.

After the fuselage construction is fixed on a board, a cellophane- or plastic foil over it and now you can start building the fuselage. The main spars are fastened to the board with pins, the struts are neatly fitted and well glued in place. In the meantime the fuselage frames can be cut out and any holes made for the control system. Once the side panels are finished (note that they must be in pairs), assembly can begin. As a special measure, only cold or slow-drying glue should be used.

The two pine strips at the the cover opening are coated with glue and then pressed on with clamps. The distribution must be such that a groove of approx. 2.5 x 2 mm is created at the top (the cover will later be fitted into this groove). Before the glue has set, the frames must be held them together with rubber bands, starting best at the back.

When all the frames are in place, you can align and, if necessary, weigh it down so that the fuselage is nice and straight. The spruce strips at the cover opening play an important role. If these were glued beforehand, there would be so much tension on the side panels that the balsa would crack. For this reason, only slow-drying glue is used for the assembly of the balsa wood.

After the whole thing has dried well, the nose is glued in place, and the tubes for the wing and landing gear. Also any holders for batteries, radio and servo can be mounted before planking.

After planking, the connecting ribs can be glued in place. cut a little larger, so that the wings can be adjusted well. For this reason they are so thick..."

Supplementary file notes

Instructions.
Instructions (en).
Instructions (fr).

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