Plane Jane (oz14628)

About this Plan

Plane Jane. Radio control sport aerobatic model. For .45 to .60 engines.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 18/6/2023: Added article, thanks to RFJ.

Quote: "Plane Jane may not be any saucy Sally but she certainly can add considerable glamour and excitement to your multi flying. And with a little effort, frequently gets you in winner's circle. Plane Jane, by Herb Kohler.

With the advent of foam wings and fiberglass fuselages, began an era of less building and much more flying time never before enjoyed by the RCer. If we die-hards that still enjoy building from balsa are to keep pace, we must modify our construction methods. Plane Jane is an attempt to 'keep clean,' retain sleek lines and at the same time reduce building time with simplified construction. Although no records have been kept while building the two original planes, I can honestly say that anyone can cut all the construction parts in an evening. Assembly is equally as fast.

A few words on Plane Jane flying abilities. On the original first flight, a complete pattern was flown and it performed well, except for the spin. The spin proved to be a little difficult with the smaller size elevator and rudder that were on the original plane. On the #2 ship, a larger elevator and rudder were used to cure the problem.

To date, I have used a F&M Proportional in the # 1 ship (it weighed 7 lbs) and Kraft proportional in the #2 model, (weight is 6.5 lbs) and there was no difference noted in flight characteristics between the two planes.

Groomed for the contest season with Walt Good electric brakes, #2 was ready to go. Then came the usual Saturday practice session before the LIDS meet. You guessed it: a ding due to a parted aileron plug, not too bad though but back to the workbench and a quick change of the brake units to #1 plane. Sunday morning found us at the flying field practicing furiously. Especially, getting used to the slower response of the F&M servos. Not that they do not fly as well as any others, but there is a timing difference: i.e., knowing when to let the stick go so as to come out of the maneuver with wings flying dead level.

The LIDS meet is the northeast season opener, and it was our first opportunity for contest pressure for this plane. This contest was chosen as a qualifier for the FAI finals, it usually draws most of the East Coast's better flyers. Fortunately, I placed second which continues my pattern of last year of being a bridesmaid but never a bride. So far this year I have flown in three contests and placed in each. I do not mean to imply that one must be a contest participant to build this design, but contests are the only place where our present day designs are judged.

Before getting into construction I would like to pass along a few tips which might help flight trimming. I find that towing the nose wheel slightly back makes for a much straighter takeoff run. Once airborne it is easy to handle and presents no problems to the average flyer. If using proportional equipment, trim the controls to fly level into the wind. To check elevator response, you should be able to do an average size loop with about one-half of the stick movement. With this amount of elevator, the plane should be easy to handle and yet have enough control to get you out of trouble should an emergency arise. I have seen too many ships not being able to pull up sharply enough and meet with an untimely end.

Check the roll rate to the right and to the left. The ship should roll equally well in either direction. Watch carefully for any yaw tendency. If this occurs, adjust by lifting both ailerons.

I normally adjust the rudder by flying dead away from me and pulling the nose up in vertical flight. While the ship is going up, watch for any tendency to yaw from straight flight. Adjust rudder until straight flight is obtained.

Fuselagfe: Start by cutting all the parts. This way once construction starts, you can continue through to the end. Assemble hard wood motor bearers and plywood bulkheads F2 and F3 and allow to dry. Glue the 1/4 in side doublers to this box, be careful to align correctly. When dried, lay this assembly on the top view and add fuselage sides and rear bulkhead. The 3/8 triangular bulkhead supports are very important and care should be taken to do a good job of fitting and gluing.

Drill holes for engine mounting and nose gear. I would like to pass along a tip that will help to assure proper engine alignment. Set the engine in the mounts upside down, and then drill the holes using the engine as a template. The top and bottom blocks may now be put into place. I have developed as easy method of insuring a good spinner fit..."

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