Minikin (oz14623)

About this Plan

Minikin. Radio control aerobatic slope soarer model. Wingspan 48.5 in.

Note plan shows both foam-core and built-up wing options. Plan also shows options for three different tail layout.

Quote: "Minikin. Designed by John Cooper. An exciting 48.5 inch span, 3-in-1 machine, suitable for almost any application you can think of."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 16/6/2023: Added article, thanks to RFJ.

Quote: "Minikin. John Cooper's exciting 48.5 in span, 3-in-1 machine, suitable for almost any application you can think of!

The Minikin came about as a result of the need for a small model to take on holiday at a moment's notice. I wanted a model that would test my strengths and weaknesses in R/C flying, yet be aerobatic, compact and fly in 10-30 mph winds. So Minikin was born!

General note: The tailplane you choose will determine the fuselage construction as there are two lengths of fuselage sides. There is space enough for two standard or four mini servos but if using mini servos, formers P2 and P3 will require added holes for the control snakes.

Options:
1. The T tail requires the short fuselage sides and formers F1-P3.
2. The L tail requires the long fuselage sides and formers F1-F3.
3. The V tail requires the long fuselage sides and formers F1-F5.

Fuselage Assembly: Cut out the fuselage components and glue them together on a flat building board. When set, clamp the outside faces together and trim so that both sides are identical in outline. Cut the formers and glue the triangular balsa reinforcement. to Apply adhesive to the mating surfaces of the fuselage sides and formers (F1-F3 or F1-F5), clamp the assembly together straight and square on a flat board (a straight line drawn on the board for reference helps) and allow to cure.

Add the laminated ply and balsa top front nose reinforcement. For T versions add the bottom decking after the T fin and top decking is glued in place. With the L or V versions, place the fuselage upside down centred along the line on the board and add the bottom front and rear decking. Razor plane and sand a chamfer on both pieces of decking to scarf join the middle bottom decking. This decking will have a section removed if a ballast/hook plate is required.

Hollow out the nose block then liberally smear adhesive inside to harden the surface and strengthen the nose before attaching the block to F1.

Cut and fit the hatch covers, facing them with 1/64 ply. Drill and insert the aluminium dowel support tubes, cyano in place and insert the wooden dowels. The hatch latch is a length of piano wire bent into a T with a washer soldered on, sliding inside two pieces of brass tubing with a piece of biro spring, all just cyano'cl into the hatch. Finish the fuselage to a nice round shape.

V tailplane Assembly: Cut out and glue the tailplanes and elevators from 3/16 sheet including the anti warp sections to the indicated larger V outline shown on the plan. Razor plane and sand to profile. Separate the elevator and chamfer the hinge line for top hinging. Sand an angle of 55° on the centre junction of each tailplane then glue together at a total angle of 110°. One of those small cheap transparent protractors from the local Post Office is all that's needed to make this job easy.

Apply a 1 in wide lightweight glass reinforcing bandage to both sides of the centre section and fit control horns. A tiny reinforcing bandage (cyano on glass cloth) would help bond the crank to the elevator at the brass tube end..."

Supplementary file notes

Article.

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction