Fast Aerobatic Roundy Thing (oz14614)

 

Fast Aerobatic Roundy Thing (oz14614) by Ian Peacock 1997 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Fast Aerobatic Roundy Thing (aka FART). Control line stunt model.

A 1960s style flying wing control line trainer, for 0.15 to 0.19 engines.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 1/2/2025: Added article, thanks to RFJ.

Quote: "As a rider to Ian Peacock's epistle on the rights and wrongs of the way that control line flying is taught, we at AMI present Ian's new model, expressly for the beginner.

The Fast, Aerobatic, Roundy-roundy Thing cannot really be considered as a piece of original design. It is more of an amalgam of a variety of excellent designs of the period, brought up to date, not from the aerodynamic or performance point of view, but more from the availability of today's parts. There can be no denying that control line modelling is not as well catered for today as it was back in the 1960's! Not every shop carries a vast stock of accessories. In fact, there no longer exists such stock to carry! The problem is exacerbated by the fact that many of us in those far distant days actually made parts for our models, rather than buying them. Nostalgia aside, we all have to live with the passage of time, and when life chooses to move the goal posts, most of us manage to get along somehow with the new set of circumstances!

Thus this 'design' owes much to several well known models of the time. It maintains the flying wing layout, and uses the well proven spar-less construction. The leading edge is laminated from several layers out of necessity rather than choice, for it offers immense strength and ease of repair, as and when it becomes needed. Please don't try to make it out of one piece of wood, for much strength is imparted by the layers of glue. The thick, blunt section tends to keep the model's speed within reasonable bounds, whilst providing a quite passable turning radius. You will note the use of proprietary parts wherever possible.

FIRST MAKE YOURSELF A KIT: All of the model is made from stock wood sizes. The leading edge is made up from five laminations, of which the centre piece is from hard 1/8 balsa. The inner and outer pieces, above and below this starting point, are all from 1/4 medium sheet. The use of Aliphatic resin throughout for all wood to wood joints is recommended, particularly the leading edge and pod laminations, for it presents an easier to sand glue line than PVA (although PVA can be used for the inside joints!). The wing ribs are all 1/8 medium sheet except for the two centre ribs which are from 1/4 sheet. The one piece trailing edge is also from 1/4 medium balsa. Wing tips are from the scrap box. Mine were 1/4 soft sheet, but 1/8 would do just as well. The elevator is 1/8 sheet, and may be hinged in the manner of your choice. The fact that I sew mine, with waxed cobblers thread says something about my age!

The engine pod, whilst simple to build up from laminations of ply and balsa as shown, does benefit from a bit of thought before you start. In order to fit the Chart uni-flow tank within the confines of the wing, the engine bearer spacing comes out at one and one eighth inches. This is about right for engines such as the Oliver Tiger (or today's replicas thereof!) but is a bit too wide to accommodate, say, the PAW 0.19 that most of us would choose to. use. Accordingly, it will pay to check the dimensions of your chosen engine carefully and adjust the bearers as shown on the drawing, such that the front end fits the engine, and the rear end fits the wing. Whatever you do, keep the bearers parallel! The face of the bearers is made up from two laminations of thin plywood, and two laminations of balsa. (The exact thickness is not critical, they can be anything from 1/4 to 1/2 sheet, dependant upon what you have got in your scrap box.)

Details consist of 1/8 ply for the bell crank mount, 1/16 sheet to cover top and bottom centre section, and such metal/plastic bits as needed to make up the control system.

ASSEMBLY STARTS HERE: Because the wing section is flat for the leading 50%, it allows the wing to be pinned down onto the building board, ensuring a straight and true structure. The same is true of the engine pod!

When dry, take a razor plane to the leading edge of the wing, and round it all off as shown. Finish off the remainder of the model to suit, either by using abrasive paper or some of the proprietary products now on the market, such as the Permagrit tools. (You can leave the edges, and the pod square if you want, as long as the wing leading edge is rounded off a bit! However, if you fancy a touch more eye appeal, then round it all off as shown in the drawing and photographs.)

Now cover the wing! Don't be tempted to use any of the modern plastic finishes. This model has got to be tough enough to take the punishment meted out during the learning phase. Use best quality nylon, adhered to the framework of the wing with clear dope, straight from the can. Use just one piece of nylon, stretched from tip to tip, across the upper surface of the wing, with enough left hanging over the leading edge to fold under and cover the underside. Remember to keep the weave parallel to the span. When the top is all stuck down, fold the remainder of the nylon back under the wing..."

Supplementary file notes

Article.

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Fast Aerobatic Roundy Thing (oz14614) by Ian Peacock 1997 - model pic

Datafile:
  • (oz14614)
    Fast Aerobatic Roundy Thing
    by Ian Peacock
    from Aviation Modeller International
    July 1997 
    27in span
    IC C/L
    clean :)
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 04/05/2023
    Filesize: 471KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: theshadow
    Downloads: 340

Fast Aerobatic Roundy Thing (oz14614) by Ian Peacock 1997 - pic 003.jpg
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Fast Aerobatic Roundy Thing (oz14614) by Ian Peacock 1997 - pic 004.jpg
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Notes

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Scaling

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