Super Cub (oz14581)

 

Super Cub (oz14581) by Larry Kruse 2016 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Super Cub. Radio control scale model for electric power. Wingspan 20 in. Uses foam construction.

Note this plan is a free download, available from the ParkPilot site at http://www.theparkpilot.org/build-it-super-cub where it appears along with the full build text and some great build pics.

Quote: "The creation of this little aircraft was inspired by the work of a magazine columnist to resurrect a Top Flite Jigtime FF (Free Flight) model and by my CO2-powered FF design published in 1987. I thought it would be interesting to m - and so the Super Cub was born!

To speed up this construction project, gather the necessary materials. Start by acquiring 2mm foam from Great Planes (greatplanes.com). I got mine via Tower Hobbies (towerhobbies.com) in the three-sheet 11.5 x 11.5 x 2mm size (LXBMPG), which is plenty for this model. The power system and controls that I used are also off-the-shelf units made by Flyzone (flyzoneplanes.com).

Other components that you need to gather include a 24-inch length of .025-inch diameter music wire for the pushrods, at least a 15-inch piece of .030-inch music wire for the landing gear, and some lightweight 1-inch plastic wheels such as those available from Guillow’s (guillow.com). Scrap 1/16-inch balsa for the landing gear lamination, Du-Bro micro control horns (SKU 848; dubro.com), and four bamboo cooking skewers (more about them later) will complete your materials list.

The model is held together primarily with Bob Smith Industries Super Gold (bsi-inc.com) foam-safe CA glue. I used hot glue to mount the Flyzone “brick” on its mounting rails and the motor and gearbox into their mounting slots in the firewall. I recommend using hot glue for both of these purposes before any other adhesive. The wheels are held in place with Duco Cement, which is widely available. Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue will prove useful in the later stages of construction.

Examining the plans reveals that there aren’t many parts and they can all be cut out before assembly. The easiest method to cut out the parts is to make a copy of the plans and reinforce them with lightweight poster board. Cutting out each part provides a template that can be used to trace the parts onto the 2mm foam using a sharp, soft lead pencil. A disposable scalpel or sharp hobby knife with a #11 blade works nicely to cut out the parts.

Some lamination is required, particularly in the front of the fuselage and in the motor/nose block area. Glue those parts ahead of time. The nose block’s multiple layers can wait until the motor and gearbox are mounted.

Some adjustments and sanding are required and are easiest to do when the motor/firewall assembly is in place. Lightly mark the former locations on the inside of the fuselage sides.

Build the traditional fuselage box by gluing laminated formers F-3 and F-4 in place, followed by F-5 and F-6. Pull the tail section together. Ensure that the assembly is square and has no twist in it before gluing the sides together at the tail.

The laminated scrap mounting rails for the control brick are next. Using hot glue generously applied with a toothpick, glue the corners of the unit in place (servo arms facing the bottom of the fuselage) and then former F-2, tilted forward as shown on the plans.

Mount the motor and gearbox in the precut slotted hole in the firewall, pointed down approximately 5° and 3° to the right of the centerline. Allow the propeller shaft to protrude enough to clear the laminated nose block. Toothpick-applied hot glue is the best adhesive for the task. Hold the motor/gearbox unit in place until it sets up. Glue the motor mount into position with CA adhesive in the front of the fuselage (inside the fuselage sides), with an additional bead of CA applied on the backside.

Carefully cut slots in the fuselage sides just aft of former F-5 to allow the elevator and rudder pushrods to exit. A U-bend at the rear of each pushrod allows length adjustments. Thread the pushrods through the fuselage from the rear and attach them to the servo arms by first removing the arms, threading the pushrods into their respective outside mounting holes, then screwing them back into place. Keep the servo output shafts centered.

Moving back to the nose area, install the top sheeting between the firewall and F-2. You need to make the sheeting curve as needed. This is best accomplished by rolling the sheeting over some type of mandrel. I used a 3/4-inch diameter aluminum wing tube..."

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Super Cub (oz14581) by Larry Kruse 2016 - model pic

Datafile:

ScaleType:
  • Piper_PA-18_Super_Cub | help
    see Wikipedia | search Outerzone
    ------------
    Test link:
    search RCLibrary 3views (opens in new window)


    ScaleType: This (oz14581) is a scale plan. Where possible we link scale plans to Wikipedia, using a text string called ScaleType.

    If we got this right, you now have a couple of direct links (above) to 1. see the Wikipedia page, and 2. search Oz for more plans of this type. If we didn't, then see below.


    Notes:
    ScaleType is formed from the last part of the Wikipedia page address, which here is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piper_PA-18_Super_Cub
    Wikipedia page addresses may well change over time.
    For more obscure types, there currently will be no Wiki page found. We tag these cases as ScaleType = NotFound. These will change over time.
    Corrections? Use the correction form to tell us the new/better ScaleType link we should be using. Thanks.

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Scaling

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