Jr Jungmeister (oz14563)

About this Plan

Jr Jungmeister. Profile scale model biplane, for rubber power.

Quote: "The full scale Jungmeister is an outstanding German stunt and training ship and has the proportions that make an especially good flying model. Structure of the Junior Jungmeister is simple and light enough to guarantee long flights in your school gym, or outdoors on a calm evening. 30 second flights are routine, and 60 second flights have been made under a 30 foot ceiling.

The profile fuselage makes Junior a snap to build. Just build the 'side' right over the plans, then cover it, you're done. As easy as building a rudder.

Building Notes: JJ's design is a little unusual - please read the instructions. There is an easy way to do everything. So before you start building each part, take a few seconds to read the instructions. It may save a lot of time and headaches.

If you plan to fly indoors, use light weight balsa throughout. All unmarked strips are 1/16 square balsa and all unmarked sheet par is are made of 1/16 thick sheet. Sharp tools are especially important when working with small, soft pieces of balsa.

Tail Surfaces: The rudder and stabilizer are easiest, so let's build them first. Assemble the frames directly over the plans. Try this different way to make the curved outlines of the frames. Build all the surfaces 'square cornered' with large triangular pieces of sheet (keep the grain direction correct) cemented in the corners. Each corner piece must be large enough to cover the curved part outline on the plans beneath it. Remove the square cornered frame from the plans when it is dry. Cut the outline of the whole surface from the plans, and mark around it onto the framework. Trim the square corners down to the rounded outline. Now use a sharp blade to cut away the inside of the curve to the desired tip thickness.

This system gives a much better fit between all the pieces than trying to puzzle together a lot of odd shaped parts traced and cut from patterns.

Cover the rudder on both sides and the stabilizer on the top side only with Japanese tissue. Do not spray or dope.

Wings: Before starting assembly of the wings, slice a big handful of ribs. This old indoor modeler's trick makes cutting out ribs easier than slicing cheese. First, cement the rib pattern to a piece of tin can metal and cut to shape with tin snips. Then cut a 2-5/16 long piece of 1/16 sheet. Lay the template over the sheet and slice along the curved edge with a sharp blade. Slide the template down 1/16, slice again, and you have a completed rib. Slide and slice again, and you have a second one. The sketch of this operation should make it clear. You need 32 ribs, but make a lot of spares. Some will be too thick or too thin and sometimes you'll split one or trim it too short during assembly. The template will be used again to cut pieces for the wing strut assemblies and the fuselage.

Now assemble the bottom wing over the plans. The ribs will be too long. Trim the excess from the rear end of the rib. When the joints are dry, cut four tiny, chisel-shaped notches nearly thru the top of the spars at the place where the sweepback starts. Raise each tip 1-1/8 inches above the work bench. Block the tips at that height and cement the joints.

The top wing is identical to the bottom except for the details of the center section which are shown in dotted lines on the plans. The 1/16 x 1/8 strut support pieces are flush with the bottom surface of the center section. Cement them thoroughly. Be sure that you raise the wing tips exactly the same amount (1-1/8) as on the lower wing. Cover the wings on the top side only. Small separate pieces will have to be used on the tips and center section. Don't water shrink or dope them. On the lower wing, trim the paper away in the slots for the outer strut assemblies..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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