Jr Satan (oz14536)

About this Plan

Jr Satan. Control line combat stunt model for .15 to .19 engines. Wingspan 29 in.

Note this is a scan of the original kit plan, as printed. The fuselage side view and pushrod pattern are shown fullsize, but the rest of the plan is at 2/3 scale.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Planfile includes detailed build instructions.

Quote: "General: The lighter a model is, the tighter it can maneuver, Keep the weight down, and aim at a total not to exceed 13 oz complete with engine, tank, etc.

Ruggedness is important, too. Don't spare the glue - but don't expect it to make up for sloppy joints.

White glue (such as Elmers, Wilhold, etc) makes excellent joints. Otherwise, use fuelproof cement. Pre-glue with a first thin coat (and let dry) before actually joining ports. Excess white glue may be removed with a damp rag.

Prevent errors by going through the plan thoroughly before beginning work.

1. Use white glue (such as Elmer's, Wilhold, etc) to assemble engine mount. Before assembly, add spacers S1 or S2 if necessary to fit your engine. See table A.

White glue skid in place. Be sure edges of opening and rear notch are flush with inner edge of spacers. If no spacers, use inner edge of bearers.

On most engines, needle valve will appear on bottom of this airplane. If on top, needle valves can be reversed, but this should be attempted only by (or with the help of) an experienced modeler. If needle valve is left on top, skid may be put in upside down for protection on inverted landings. Wing is then built right side up, and should be lined up on lower right hand border of plan.

Plywood skid (new to combat models) serves 3 purposes: Binds engine mount and leading edge together, protects needle valve, and provides landing skid.

Important: After gluing skid to engine mount, trim all corners of bearers as indicated.

2. Trim away spacers if necessary to clear engine. Drill 1/8 mounting holes for engine and install blind nuts. Center the rear holes exactly 1 in from front of bearers.

3. Note the different spacing on each side of the leading and trailing edges. Be sure notches match indications on left bottom border of plan before gluing.

Pin trailing edge along bottom border as shown. Be sure notch for rib No.2 is centered on left border. Cement No.2 platform ribs, Slip engine mount on leading edge, and cement leading edge to platform ribs only. Make sure wing is perfectly square.

4. Add 1/8 center ribs, using plenty of white glue between them and the mount; also between the mount and the leading edge.

Add all remaining ribs. Use pins to bock up ribs, and slide spar in place. Add wing tips, and other small parts shown. Also glue the balsa fillers between the mount and the leading edge.

5. Sheet center section on bottom. Cement plug in bottom sheeting only.

6-7. Turn wing right side up. Bend pushrod per full size drawing. Make up bellcrank assembly with pushrod in hole about 7/16 from crank pivot center to give less 'stabilator' movement. You won't need much, as stabilators are highly effective.

Glue two 1/4 x 5/16 spars to plywood bellcrank mount, then to bottom sheeting and ribs. This installation must be strong, since in flight the entire weight of the plane and engine must be held by this assembly.

Install tank as shown. Make tank braces From scrap. DO NOT drill through leading edge for fuel line. Route fuel line through either the top or bottom sheeting, depending on which side the fuel pickup is on your engine.

Sheet the top center section, and add 1/8 brace against rib to reinforce bellcrank mount..."

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