Dizzy Bee (oz14442)

About this Plan

Dizzy Bee. Control line speed model, for Fox .29X engine.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 17/3/2023: Added article, thanks to Pit.

Quote: "A master flier presents a .29 Mono-Line speed model. Thoroughly contest tested. Dizzy Bee, by Bob Lauderdale.

The Dizzy Bee was built for the 1957 Nats in Philadelphia. No official flights were recorded because the new Fox 29X wasn't thoroughly broken in. For the 1958 Nats in Chicago, the Dizzy Bee was refinished and the engine was given more running time. The best flight turned was 149.92 mph, good enough for 6th place behind Harris and Shelton who hit 155 for a new record. Since then Dizzy Bee has won three firsts at speeds of 150 mph and is very capable of going faster under the right weather conditions.

To begin construction you will need two pieces of basswood as specified. One for the wing the other for the crutch; two balsa blocks for the engine cowling; plywood for the tail; and a cast aluminum speed pan. Dizzy Bee uses the L&H speed pan from the L&H Hobby Shop, Mesquite, Tex. Finally you will need a Class B Speedmaster Mono-line control unit. Although a Fox 29X is used the new Dooling 29 can be installed if desired with minor changes.

Fuselage: Start with the an by filing the outside with a course file to remove any pits or rough edges, then use a smooth file to finish. Using $270 wet or dry, sandpaper the surface until smooth, then rub to a high finish with DuPont 47 rubbing compound.

The pan is drilled and tapped for the hold-down screws. Use a if43 drill, then tap the holes using a #4-40 tap. Be sure in locating the four engine mount screw locations that you allow for a slight left-thrust adjustment.

For the fuselage crutch select apiece of straight grain basswood or pine and, using the pan as a pattern, draw the outline and cut out with a handsaw or coping saw. Refer to the drawing for the inside lines of the crutch. Pencil these lines onto the fuselage block and cut out this inside portion.

Carve the underside of the crutch to clear the engine shaft housing and carburetor, allowing the crutch to set against the pan.

Wing: Select a straight fine-grain blank of basswood or pine, remove the leading edge portion, then spot glue it back in place and allow to dry overnight. The wing planform is drawn on the wing blank or the pattern used, also the outline of the wing cutout.

Taper the underside of the wing from the root section at the fuselage joint to each wingtip. Leave the wingtips as thin as possible. Carve and sand the airfoil into the wing. Separate the leading edge portion of the wing from the larger portion by parting the cement-tacked center-line joint. Carefully cut and sand the groove in both sides.

Slip the control unit into place and adjust so the tubular stem of the control unit extends exactly centered in the grooved passageway. Drill holes through wing and fasten control unit mounting bracket with suitable machine screws and nuts. When tightening screws, make sure the control unit remains set with the tubular stem in perfect alignment with the grooved passageway. Replace the the leading edge section of wing. When cementing, there is the possibility that cement may be pressed into the passageway, around the tubular stem for instance, which, when dry, can cause drag or binding. Use only enough cement to do the job and then rotate the cam a few times to make sure the tubular stem has not become cemented in the groove.

Now drill a 1/16 dia hole through the wing to receive the bellcrank pivot pin. Adjust the pin in the hole so the bellcrank will move freely and fix pin into place by soldering on the opposite side..."

Supplementary file notes

Article.

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