Mr Max (oz14436)

About this Plan

Mr Max. Free flight model for Jetex PAA-loader 150 engine.

Quote: "Here is a well-tested contest flyer for powering with a Jetex PAA-Loader 150 engine. It placed 2nd at the Nats.

When we are working with a modest amount of power we must be careful not to design the model oversize nor build it too heavy . . . that is if we are to get winning performance. Mr Max is light enough to have a good climb, large enough to glide well. The thin undercambered wing section gives power-off performance that's a wow.

If you are to turn out a light model (ours weighed 7/8 of an ounce) you must use light wood, light tissue and only one coat of dope. We used 1/16 soft balsa for the fuselage; when finished we sanded it well, the rear section extra well. It was Sig 'Contest Balsa.'

Start construction with the fuselage. The sides are easy if traced from the full size plan. Cement the sides together at the rear. Cut the formers to size from the plan; laying the wood over the plan and cutting it there means less chance for error. By starting at the rear and working forward a straight fuselage will result. Top and bottom sheets then cement in place, are trimmed when dry. Nose block is cemented in place, then carved to shape. The lower edges of the body can be rounded a little. The engine mount cuts from 1/8 hard balsa and is streamlined. Add the 1/8 bass cap to the top, then cover this section with nylon cementing well. This will prevent the Jetex holder screws from splitting the bass. Slit fuselage to accept the mount and cement it in place.

The wing and stabilizer plaforms are cut to size and cemented to the fuselage. Cut rudder; note that like the motor mount it runs down into the fuselage. Cut a slot in the top of the fuselage for the rudder and cement it in place.

Cut the required wing and stabilizer ribs; pin each set together. After sanding, notches for the spars can be cut with two hacksaw blades taped side by side, this will give a perfect fit for the wing spars.

Assemble the wing center-section first; use scrap balsa to hold the trailing edge up to conform with the rib. The tips come next. To ease the job of cutting the spars for dihedral, the leading and trailing edge are first used to hold the ribs in place, the tips cement in posi-tion, then the top wing spars added.

The stabilizer is made in the same manner as the wing center section. As the plans show the trailing edge is flat so don't prop this up like the wing's trailing edge. The leading edges of the wing and stabilizer are carved to shape, then sanded smooth..."

Mr Max, American Modeler, February 1959.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, thanks to RFJ.

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction