Miss America (oz14311)

About this Plan

Miss America. Rubber sport model, complete with dummy IC engine.

Original kit plan from Scientific, 1938. This here is a reprint in RCMW-FSP, Dec 2014. As hosted on the mac34.fr site [see datafile].

Note this plan is stamped as Archive #003571 from the Cooperative Plans Service. See their website at www.co-op-plans.com

Planfile includes full build instructions.

Quote: "Miss America. Gas Type-Rubber Powered Model Plane. Wingspan 40 in. Flies 1 mile (5280 feet).

This small rubber-powered model was designed from gas model plans and its construction very closely resembles that of its prototype, the gas powered 'Miss America.' Study the instructions, plans, and photos carefully and check from one to the other to form a clear picture of just what you are to do.

The printed pieces may all be cut out at once or you can cut them out as you need them. For this purpose we recommend a Scientific Model Knife, or you can use a razor blade that has been broken to a pointed tip. Use a metal-edged rule when cutting straight lines.

The fuselage is made first by placing transparent waxed paper over the plan and building one side at a time. Hold the pieces in place with pins until the cement has thoroughly dried. The two sides are assembled by laying one side flat and cementing in the crossbraces which would come under the trailing edge of the wing and the ones just forward of these. This is the widest part of the fuselage. Be sure everything is perfectly square before you allow the cement to dry.

The rear ends of the longerons are tapered as shown in the top view of the fuselage, and are now cemented together. The remaining crosspieces and bulkheads are now cemented in place.

The nose block is roughly carved to the approximate size and then cemented in place and finished off with fine sandpaper. The rear hook, tail skid, and landing gear wires are now bent to shape and put in place.

The dummy motor may be put in before or after the paper cowling is in place. Cement celluloid to the window frames before you attach the frames to the fuselage so the celluloid will be on the inside of the paper frame. The windshield is attached after the fuselage is covered with tissue.

The tail surfaces are built over the plan for accuracy. The tips and leading and trailing edges are not rounded and tapered until the units are together and the cement is thoroughly dry. The tabs are put on before the units are covered. The rudder is not cemented to the stabilizer until after it is covered.

Build the wing in the same manner as the tail surfaces, that is, directly over the plan. The leading edge is not attached in the general assembly but is built up according to the front view of the wing and is attached when the two finished wing halves are joined together.

Notice that the wing spars are not cut at Rib #1 but run through and join at the center. To assemble the finished wing halves, taper the bottom of the rear spar in the center so that when the wing tips are raised to the proper dihedral angle, the two ribs #1 will rest flat over the drawing. Pin the wing securely at the center and place blocks or books underneath the wing about halfway out so the tips will be raised 2-1/4 in. Cement the gusset plates W and W-1 in place and also the trailing edge with the two fillets in the corners.

The leading edge may now be cemented to the ribs. Allow plenty of time for the whole unit to dry and then finish off the tips and leading and trailing edges. Cover the top of the center section with sheet balsa and attach the streamlining block to the leading edge.

The propeller is shaped as shown in the photos and sanded smooth.

The fuselage is covered with blue tissue, using clear dope as an adhesive. Do not try to cover too large an area at one time or the dope will dry before you have a chance to apply the tissue. Use separate pieces for each surface and trim the edges close to the framework with a sharp razor blade and then dope down the loose edges..."

Supplementary file notes

Printwood parts.

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