Gotha Go 145 (oz14300)

About this Plan

Gotha Go 145. Radio control scale model biplane. Wingspan 72-1/2 in, wing area 1419 sq in.

Quote: "Sport Scale 1930's Biplane. Gotha Go 145, by Martin Fallandy.

At the end of World War I, under the terms of the Versailles Treaty, the Gotha company was closed. Some years later, on October 2, 1933, the company was reopened. Their first project was the Gotha Go 145 trainer. The prototype first flew in February, 1934 with a total of about 12,000 being built; some under license to Turkey and Spain.

The plane was used primarily as a trainer. By removing the controls from the rear cockpit a rear firing machine gun could be installed for gunnery practice. It was also used extensively for night harassment on the eastern front.

Usually, when the real plane flew well (and many were built), the model will also fly well. The model shown here is .208 scale. Many of the planes of this era were built much as we build our models today, the construction is very simple and straightforward. The main attractions to me were the long moments, when in flight nothing happens very fast, and for us older (mature) modelers, that's a plus. If you want an easy to build, easy to fly, stable aircraft, I encourage you to have a go at the Gotha Go 145.

Picasso had his blue period and I suppose you could call this my light period, so I punched a goodly number of lightening holes, (I have been accused of building heavy in the past). All kidding aside. don't hesitate to build it your way and lighten as your experience dictates. Maintain the perimeters and balance point for openers and I know you will be successful.

A good source of information on this or most any other aircraft is Dick Gleason at 705 10th Ave SW, Austin, MN. I was also fortunate that my son, Chris, came up with a 1/72 plastic model of the Gotha. This allowed me to get an accurate wing rib count and other fine details.

Construction: Biplanes are a little more work to build than single wing models, but the rewards are well-worth the effort. There is nothing prettier than a biplane clearing the weeds coming in for a landing or gracefully doing aerobatics. The design and construction of this model is relatively simple and straight-forward, if you decide to give it a go I know you will be successful.

Fuselage: The fuselage is a box section laid up inverted in the RCM Fuselage Jig (oz11465). Tack-glue the two pieces of wood together from which the sides are to be cut. Put the glue in spots that will be cut away as lightening holes. Cut the two sides as a unit, don't forget to drill the 1/16 holes where indicated. Cut the lightening holes away last and the two halves will separate.

With the side formers parallel in the jig, thread pieces of 1/16 piano wire through the pre-drilled holes. These wires will accurately position the 1/4 in square balsa pieces that separate the sides, the formers are then added to the box. The wires will also position the side stringers that form the fuselage cross section.

Before adding sheeting and stringers make provisions for the fuel tank, servos, R/X, switch harness and control links. Make sure all peripheral components, landing gear assembly, engine mounts, tail wheel assembly, and required T-nuts are in place. These assemblies may now be removed for the final fuselage completion.

The cowl can be made of fiberglass over a foam plug. Make sure the front and back faces of the foam are parallel. Glue former F-1 to the back of the foam plug, then thread 2-56 headless studs into the T-nuts in F-2. The foam block may now be bolted to F-2, using a length of 1/4-20 threaded bar stock. The 2-56 studs will align the foam assembly in place..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Scan by MarkD, cleanup by Circlip.

Supplementary file notes

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