Power Model 3 (oz14292)

About this Plan

Air Adventurers Power Model 3.

Quote: "Realistic rubber-powered model for Club members looks like real plane.

We feel that our Air Adventurer followers should have progressed by now to the point where they can tackle a model quite different, and considerably more advanced, than whose we have described before. Not that the model we'll build this month is very difficult: it does, however, take longer to finish as there are quite a feW more bits and pieces to fit in.

Actually, construction is really simple, and almost every part is made similarly to parts on the preceding models of this series. The ship has been designed somewhat like a gas model, and should be considered a logical link between the rubber-powered planes that have already been presented, and the gas models that will follow. We have a fully formed fuselage, built-up wing with tip dihedral, and as a concession to realism, a tricycle landing gear.

Since the fuselage is built on a step-by-step system, let's start it first, so the preliminary joints can be cemented ,end drying. Cut the two sides from your 36 x 3 x 1/16 in soft balsa sheet and make sure they are identical in shape and length. Lay them over the fuselage side view and mark the locations of the vertical fuselage members or formers on each with a soft pencil.

Next, cut out formers 2 and 3 - be sure the grain is vertical on them. The sides and these two formers are now cemented together to produce the basic fuselage assembly. Your accuracy here will be reflected through all the remainder of the fuselage job, so go slow and' be certain the four parts are in perfect alignment before the cement sets. Lay one side flat on your table, apply cement to an edge of each former and set them in place. A few pins may be stuck in to keep them from shifting or falling over. Apply cement to the other fuselage side and lay it atop the formers. Now - before the cement sets - check what you have done with the greatest care, to make certain the two sides and two formers are correctly lined up. A small triangle or just an accurately cut piece of cardboard will help here.

Allow the above assembly to dry for a half hour or so, and meanwhile you can be cutting out the other formers. Note that #1, the nose block, is assembled from five layers of 1/16 balsa, cemented together with the grain of each sheet at right angles to the sheet next to it. This former should be built up and cut to the shape shown in the fuselage top view, before adding it to the fuselage.

Former #5 is made in a similar manner, but from three thicknesses of 1/16 balsa; the grain of the center layer should run vertically, while the other two layers are cross-grain. Cut it to the shape indicated on the top fuselage view, then punch the hole for the motor hook with a pin, and give both front and back several coats of cement, allowing each coat to dry for 15 minutes before the next is applied. Push the motor hook through and apply another cement layer to hold it... "

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Air Adventures Power Model 3 plan/article from Air Trails, June 1951.

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, thanks to RFJ.

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