Stuka (oz1420)

About this Plan

Junkers Ju-87 Stuka. Free flight scale rubber model.

Quote: "Rubber-powered scale models are better than ever! Recently when we designed and built the Focke-Wulf Stosser (oz1419) we did not envision that our interest in rubber models would prevail upon us to do another project so soon. This time we decided on a low wing beauty, the never to be forgotten 'Stuka,' which made its mark in the early days of World War II in the battle for Britain.

It may be true that low wing models never have enjoyed the success that high wing models have, when it comes to flying. Yet, there remains the constant fascination of a low wing design, enhanced by a sleek looking appearance and authentically reproduced color schemes and markings.

When it comes to performance, it is never the length of time low wing beauty stays in the air, but rather its zooming take-off and climb and the fast penetrating glide which is very typical of the way these aircraft would generally fly.

Other model builders must share our enthusiasm, for since we did the Stosser there has been an awakening interest shown by many model builders.

Construction of the model is similar to that of the Stosser, but because of its natural configuration it worked Out even easier, without losing any of its realism, and still keeping it nice and light.

Construction: Start with the fuselage. First, cut the fuselage side pieces as indicated on the plan. The formers are all cut from 1/16 sheet and are made in halves, which means the fuselage must be built in two sections. The keel pieces are cut from 1/16 x 1/8 hard balsa.

Begin assembly by pinning down the keel strips and adding the formers, After this has dried, remove the assembly from the plan and add the remaining former halves to the opposite side.

Begin adding the 1/16 stringers in matching pairs, one on each side. Cement them in the rear former notches first and then secure them gradually toward the front. This helps reduce the possibility of building a distorted fuselage. Next, add the 1/16 sheet sides in position. Here again, it would be best to do both sides together, securing them gradually in place.

The nose piece is laminated from 1/8 sheet cross-grained, and provision should be made so that it is easily removed for winding the rubber motor. Install the rubber motor at this time as it will simplify things later on. We found that four strands of 1/8 flat brown rubber 11 in long is ample for long cruising flights. For the rapid take-off and zooming climb, we would recommend six strands of 1/8 flat, 11 in long, or its equivalent.

The tail surfaces require little explanation, as they are built from strip stock, directly over the plan. Once dry, they are removed carefully, sanded to shape and cleaned up. The joints are then given another light coat of cement to provide added strength.

The wing assembly, because of its dihedral shape, may give the less experienced model builder some difficulty, however, if particular care is exercised it will mean nothing but a little extra time. The most important thing of course is the tapered spar assembly to which the wire landing gear struts are bound and fastened. We would advise that the wing halves be assembled in a standard manner, building the wing directly over the plan, minus the main spar assembly. After each finished wing half has dried, slit the leading and trailing edge at R-3 and re-cement at the required dihedral angle, then install the completed main spar assembly.

Carving a propeller appears to be a tedious job, and generally it is for someone who has not as yet undergone his first experience. We suggest that you make the effort even if you fmd it somewhat difficult at first. The advantage of a carved balsa propeller is its lighter weight, which will compensate for even a poorly carved propeller.

Blank out the propeller as indicated on the drawing and remove the portions which are shown shaded. Since the propeller will rotate counter-clockwise while unwinding. The propeller leading edge is always on the left-hand side, looking from the front. Mark the ends of the block to serve as a guide, for carving the propeller correctly.

Begin rough carving the underside of both propeller blades until much of the excess has been removed and all that remains is to sand it smooth and add a slight bit of undercamber..."

Supplementary file notes

Planfile includes article.

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