Philcan Sport Sedan (oz14167)
About this Plan
Philcan Sport Sedan. Radio control sport model.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 2/11/2022: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
Quote: "Free Time? Try our free plan! Philcan Sport Sedan, by Phil Kent.
The Sport Sedan is a development of the original Philcan Sedan (oz9716) design. This model was a simple to build three function trainer, that looked a little bit different, and proved to be very easy to fly.
Since our club flying site is rather restricted in size this encourages the use of small models. I still had the Philcan Sedan, it had been out on loan to a friend for several years, but I wanted something that would be a little more interesting to fly than a trainer. I decided that a redesign of the Sedan might be just what I wanted so out came the drawing board and here is the result.
The wing was reduced in size and inset ailerons incorporated along with a reduction in dihedral. The wing tips were altered in shape and the elevator and rudder corners were rounded off. To add to the 1930's appeal I fitted vintage style wheels, these also help when flying from the rough grass field. I did not consider it necessary to build a new fuselage and tail unit, so I just built new wings and did the very basic modifications.
I also decided to use the OS 20 four-stroke, rather than a larger 40 size motor. This has proved to be quite satisfactory and the model has all the power it needs to do the mild aerobatics that it is capable of. As the OS 20 is no longer available I would suggest using the excellent OS 26 four stroke. You could of course use a small two stroke engine but although they can be silenced well below the recommended noise limit, it is the high pitched whine that seems to annoy the general public and leads to complaints.
I would think that most modellers who have completed a built up model from a kit would be able to cope with the construction techniques that are used on the Sport Sedan, take a look and see what you think.
Building the model: If you want to see an early result from your labours, start off with the tail unit. All the components are from medium grade 3/16 sheet balsa. As the tail surfaces are basically rectangles the shapes can be measured directly onto the wood, if however you want a pattern, trace the shapes onto tracing paper and transfer the pattern by pricking through the paper onto the wood. The leading edges should be rounded off to the shape shown on the drawing.
The rudder and elevator should be of a triangular section, again this is shown on the side elevation of the fuselage. No carving is required, you will be able to remove the excess balsa with sandpaper paper. I use the Scotch Super Grade that is available at most of the DIY outlets the, 120 grade will remove the excess wood rapidly. Always use a sanding block for this operation, either a commercial cork one or one from a piece of block balsa.
Perhaps I should have said at the beginning of the building instructions that I think that it is best to cut out all the parts before starting to assemble any of the components. For the wing ribs make a template from 1/16 plywood. It is then a simple task to produce accurate ribs by cutting round the template that is placed onto a sheet of balsa of the required thickness. With careful planning when doing this operation very little material is wasted. The cost is much reduced, and along with the another savings it is a very good reason for building a model from a plan. Another advantage, not always appreciated, is the ability to choose the quality of the materials yourself. How often do you have to discard a piece of wood in a kit?
For the other parts that need cutting out use the previously mentioned tracing paper method, but if you have your own pet way use that.
Fuselage: You will need to butt join some 3/32 sheets of balsa to get the width that is needed for the fuselage sides. Select sheets that are of a similar quality and check that the edges are straight before attempting to join them. If there is a problem here, trim with a straight edge. Using masking tape to fasten the sheets together with a couple of pieces on one side only. Run cyano down the edge, lay flat down on the building hoard and tape the other side. This is a quick method but be careful to align the sheets correctly before the glue goes off.
Again I traced out the fuselage side shape and transferred the shape onto the balsa by pricking through. Draw round the front fuselage portion onto 1/32 ply for the doubler. The doubler is attached to the balsa side with a contact adhesive, I use Evo-stik, remember to make up a pair of sides.
Next make up the balsa formers from 1/8 sheet strip, cut the pieces approximately to size, glue and then cut to the finished size. There is an 1/8 sheet balsa doubler fitted under the wing mount and a 1/16 ply doubler at the tailplane mount.
When these are in place the fuselage is ready to be assembled. Make up a sub assembly of the engine hearers and formers F1, F2 and F3. Use 5 minute epoxy and make sure that the unit is accu-rate before the adhesive hardens. Glue the sub assembly at F3 and former F4 onto one of the fuselage sides. When dry add the second side.
Pull in the sides at the rear and glue in the stern post. The balsa formers F5 and F6 and the 1/16 ply former F7 can then be added. Use epoxy to fasten the front of the sub assembly in place, copious quantities of masking tape need to be used to pull the fuselage sides into place..."
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(oz14167)
Philcan Sport Sedan
by Phil Kent
from RC Model World
June 1999
48in span
IC R/C
clean :)
all formers complete :)
got article :) -
Submitted: 19/10/2022
Filesize: 811KB
Format: • PDFbitmap
Credit*: theshadow
Downloads: 606



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User comments
Nice "spoof-scale" model, and should fly well too :)Miguel - 02/11/2022
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- Philcan Sport Sedan (oz14167)
- Plan File Filesize: 811KB Filename: Philcan_Sports_Sedan_oz14167.pdf
- Supplement Filesize: 2986KB Filename: Philcan_Sports_Sedan_oz14167_article.pdf
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Notes
* Credit field
The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.
Scaling
This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
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