Heath Parasol (oz14152)


Heath Parasol (oz14152) by Jo Howell 1932 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Heath Parasol. Free flight scale model for rubber power. Wingspan 23-1/2 in. Scale is 1/16.

Quote: "Build a New Heath Parasol. These Instructions and Plans Will Allow You to Build a Beautiful Flying Model of One of the Latest Light Sport Ships. By Jo Howell.

The new Heath Parasol, which but recently received government approval, forms an interesting subject for model builders everywhere. The Heath is an outstanding example of the American sport plane, holding records in almost every field it could enter.

The flying scale model of this plane has a wing span of 23-1/2 inches and a length of 13 inches. When completed, ready to fly, it weighs about 1-1/2 ounces.

General: This model was designed as a model from factory drawings of the large plane. The 3/4 scale was selected because it lends itself most naturally to model building and flying. Models made to this scale are, in most cases, neither too large to build nor too small to fly. and in addition, when a group of them are collected, they are all in proportion to each other, making theM look natural.

All balsa construction is used. The writer feels that inasmuch as the plane is not intended for a speed !nuclei, balsa is more than strong enough for the job. All the wing tips and the tail surfaces are cut from 1/16 flat balsa with a sharp razor blade. preferably a double edged blade broken in half and a piece broken off the end of that, giving a sharp point. The curved outlines are traced from the drawings onto tracing paper. This is then cut carefully along the edge to be followed, and placed over the balsa with the direction of the grain running as shown in the drawings, and the wood cut.

The best feature of this method is: an exact outline of the wingtip or other part is to be had, an almost impossible feat when working with bamboo, and a very much lighter part. Some strength is sacrificed, perhaps, but this is negligible in the light of what is gained.

Before beginning operations, the drawings and the accompanying directions should be studied carefully, for while you may be an experienced model builder, there is generally something to be gained by a study of these things be forehand.

Fuselage: It will be noticed that this model has no motorstick. For this reason the fuselage is most important and should be constructed with great care.

Select a soft flat board to work on, and pin the drawings down on it. Work from the drawing, and there will he fewer mistakes. Mark the four longerons with a soft, sharp pencil and lay the two upper ones side by side. Cement the vertical braces that are longest, to the longerons, making both sides at once. Next cement the lower longeron to these. Do not bend the lower strips for the rear until the front is well dried. When finished you should have two complete fuselage sides with the top longerons together. This method keeps these parts straight, and is faster than usual.

Cut the curved parts for the top and bottom of the fuselage, and cement them on, working on the top side first. Line them up carefully, again working from the front to the rear. When they are dried thoroughly cement in place the top and bottom stringers. Lastly place the rear post and draw all the stringers and sides together.

Cut the landing gear struts to the exact size shown on the front view plan. and cement them on. Use hard balsa for these as xvell as for the brace that goes just in front of them. Bend the wire parts for the axles, tailskid and the prop hook and cement them in place. The prop hook is glued to a balsa plate that is flush with the sides of the fuselage and fits just between the top and bottom longerons at the point shown in the drawing. Cut the two nose pins from number 20 or 24 wire and cement them in place using plenty of glue.

Wings: The wings are made directly on the drawing as was the fuselage. For the left half of the wing, trace the drawing on the right half and reverse it. or use the left half as it is. Cement the ribs in place on the center spar first. Complete the whole wing before breaking in the center slightly for the 7/16 dihedral. The short center rib is made at the same time as the rest of the ribs, as are the two shorter end ribs and are sanded to shape when the assembly of the wing is completed.

Tail Surfaces: These parts are also made on the drawings and should give no trouble. All the outside edges are sanded to a regular roundness, Do not cement any of the parts to the fuselage until they are covered.

Motor Block: The motor block is made from solid balsa and is therefore heavier as a unit than the rest of the plane's parts. Two blocks are used..."

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Heath Parasol (oz14152) by Jo Howell 1932 - model pic

  • (oz14152)
    Heath Parasol
    by Jo Howell
    from Model Airplane News
    December 1932 
    23in span
    Scale Rubber F/F Parasol Civil
    clean :)
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 17/09/2022
    Filesize: 306KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: Pilgrim
    Downloads: 391

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    ScaleType: This (oz14152) is a scale plan. Where possible we link scale plans to Wikipedia, using a text string called ScaleType.

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User comments

This plan is ONE HUNDRED YEARS and by the looks of it perfectly flyable today. It's time the Society of Antique Modelers* is divided into the Real Antiques and the Nice Try Kid societies :)
* one "l" only, the damned heathens!
Miguel - 25/10/2022
Ehhh, 90 years, 90 years I meant to say! Dang, the older, the hastier! Is this a death wish or what :))
Miguel - 25/10/2022
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* Credit field

The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.


This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.


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