Flying Funtique (oz14134)

 

Flying Funtique (oz14134) by Bill Hannan 1969 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Flying Funtique. Simple all-sheet rubber sport model. Wingspan 19 in.

Note the plan shows basic airframe along with a choice of tail shapes and pilot figures that allows building 5 different variants: SE 4-7/8, Fokker Kleindeker, Curtiss Cabin, 1909 Blearyeye, Dooalot Racer.

Note the article file also include further drawings of details: insignia, engines, exhausts, etc to add more customisation.

Quote: "For the Tenderfoot. Flying Funtique, by William Hannan.

Here's a simple-to-build model that may be finished in any manner of your choice. If you like antique 'aeroplanes', you can decorate your model to resemble one of the famous vintage channel-crossers. If World War I holds your interest, your Funtique can be finished to look like either an Allied or German machine. Perhaps classic airplanes of the 20s or 30s are your dish, then try the Curtiss Cabin, the 1909 Blearyeye, or maybe the sporty little Dooalot Racer.

Actually, the model may be converted from one style to another after it is finished, but it is suggested that you pick out one type at the beginning and stick with it. You can follow one of the examples shown in our photos, or let your imagination go to work and come up with your own design. How about a Sopwith Plop? Or maybe an Oldport 17? Or a Clodrun Racer?

This model is constructed almost entirely from 1/16 sheet balsa. Use care in selecting good wood, and you will have a much better performing aircraft than one built out of 'any old wood.' When you are choosing balsa, look for nice light white stock, and sight down each piece to be certain that it is not twisted or warped.

Study the plans and photos before you start building. This will enable you to understand the way the various parts fit together. By reading the step-by-step directions and checking with the pictures, you should be able to construct the model easily. If you do run into a problem, ask another modeler or an older person for help. You may even be able to talk them into building a Funtique of their own!

Fuselage: The fuselage or body is quite easy to build, and very strong. First, make paper patterns of each part, including one top, one bottom, two sides, and the various bulkheads (formers), which are identified on the plan as F-1, F-2, etc. Note that slots must be cut for the tail skid, landing gear, windshield (if used) and pilot. Also make the small holes in the body sides for the rear rubber peg.

Place the fuselage bottom flat on your workbench and glue on the bulkheads, which should be carefully aligned both from the top and side view. Next, add one fuselage side, being careful that it lines up exactly with the edge of the fuselage bottom. Install the remainder of the bulkheads, as shown in the photos. The bulkhead closest to the nose is made of three layers glued together. This creates extra strength where it is most needed. After all the bulkheads are installed, the second side may be added. It may be helpful to pin or tape the side in place while the glue dries.

Next, bend the wire landing gear to the shape shown on the plans. Notice that the landing gear is bent forward at a slight angle, as may be seen on the side view. Insert the landing-gear wire between the two bulkheads which are on either side of the landing-gear slot. Fill the slot with glue, both from above and below the wire, and put aside to dry, preferably overnight. This glue joint must be strong, or your landing gear will rip loose on the first hard landing. The top of the fuselage may now be added. Sandpaper all four corners of the assembly until all edges are smooth. Insert and glue the tailskid into its slot.

The nose block is made of laminations in the manner of the front bulkhead. When making these 'plies,' alternate the direction of the wood grain. One ply should have vertical grain, the next horizontal, and so on. Stack the parts together and place a weight on top until dry. Be sure that the rear of the nose block is a snug fit into the front bulkhead, or it will fall out when the rubber motor runs down. The fit can be tightened if need be, by gluing a thin strip of paper along one side of the back portion of the nose block.

After the nose block assembly is thoroughly dry, drill a hole in it for the propeller shaft bearing. This bearing is made from a short length of metal tubing. Either aluminum or brass will work fine, but aluminum is easier to cut. Roll the tubing back and forth under a sharp blade to score a groove around it. Then snap it apart, and lightly sand the burr off the tube's end. Roughen up the outside of the tubing with a file or sandpaper so that the glue will be able to get a grip on it. Glue the tubing into the nose block, taking care that none of the glue runs inside the bearing hole. Next, glue on the paper nose-block decoration of your choice.

The prop shaft is bent to shape, as shown on the plans, and inserted into the bearing in the nose block. Add three or four washers to serve as thrust bearings. Place the propeller of your choice on the shaft and be certain that it has enough clearance to revolve freely. With some propeller designs, it may be necessary to add extra washers to obtain enough space between the prop blades and the nose block. Most commercially produced propellers are slightly out of balance. To improve performance and reduce vibration, sand the heaviest blade, until the prop will stay horizontal on its shaft, without one blade falling to the bottom.

Obtain a pair of wheels about 1-1/8 to 1-1/2 in diameter. We used a pair of Williams Brothers miniature scale wheels since they help to give a vintage look to the model. With the Williams wheels, it will be necessary to glue short sections of metal tubing into the hubs to reduce the hole size. This is easy, because the same type tubing used for our prop shaft bearing can be used. To retain the wheels, you can bend up the ends of the wire axles, or glue tight-fitting electrical insulation on the axle ends..."

Update 17/10/2022: Added further article, thanks to Adrian Culf. This is the write-up to the Funtique Contest, where Tenderfoot readers were invited to send in pics of their completed models, for cash prizes. From AAM, Nov 1969.

Supplementary file notes

Article, thanks to hlsat.
Article (Funtique Contest).

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Flying Funtique (oz14134) by Bill Hannan 1969 - model pic

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  • Supplement Filesize: 2592KB Filename: Flying_Funtique_oz14134_article_contest.pdf
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Notes

* Credit field

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Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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