Coz-Mick Star (oz14108)

About this Plan

Coz-Mick Star. Radio control sport aerobatic model, for .25 - .40 power.

Note this plan shows both built-up and foam wings.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 3/10/2022: Added article, thanks to RFJ.

Quote: "Fast, light and fully aerobatic. Coz-Mick Star by Mick Rudge.

Ever since the days of free flight, then single channel escapement, to the first 'Do you remember the heavy valve sets?' and onto propo sets, I have built and designed model aircraft, mainly for my own benefit. But recently people have begun to urge me to share my enjoyment with others. And so, when plans were formulated for this design, I put to paper and began work on the construction of Coz-Mick Star.

First and foremost it had to be fast and light, so I worked on a model of 49" wingspan, which should go quite fast on a .25, but I managed to shoehorn in a hot 40. The end result was an airframe of 27 ozs., inc. tank and engine mount. This combo is no slouch and cycle clips should be worn!

Wings: Before I started to cut the wings, I had to calculate the wing section. For this I used my own secret formula, the end result of which is a tapered, swept back wing with very little drag.

The wing panels were cut from foam, with the taper to suit the sweep back of the leading edge. Pre-cut wings and a foam fuselage decking to suit Coz-Mick Star (order code FVVTRC1779) are available from the Nexus Plans Service, or you can cut your own.

Two templates, one for the tip and one for the root, are cut from liteply and sanded with very fine paper. I wax the edges with an old candle, so that the hot wire slides over them better. Fasten the two templates to the ends of the foam panel with 1" x No. 8 self tapping screws, making sure that the taper is to the leading edge and that they are straight with no washout. Place on a flat surface and weigh down. Run your hot wire bow over the templates, top and bottom, and, hey presto, you've made a wing panel.

Now trim a piece of obechi veneer to size. Lay on a flat surface, rough side up, and paint with Copydex. Do the same with the wing and leave to dry for about 15 minutes. Bring the foam and veneer carefully together, repeat for both panels, then trim and sand ready for the leading and trailing edges, and wing tips.

The two halves are now ready for joining. Note the dihedral on the plan. Tack together with epoxy, then put to one side.

Fuselage: The fuselage is a simple box type, with a foam top deck. I used light balsa and liteply for most of the construction, and 6mm ply for the main bulkhead and F3.

The top deck is cut from foam the same way as the wings, then glued to a flat piece of 3mm balsa sheet. It is rolled onto the veneer after it is almost dry. The foam at the front end needs to be trimmed back by 6mm to fit over F2, whilst the rear end is set at an angle for the dashboard.

Cut out the two fuselage sides from 3mm balsa sheet. To keep it light I used veneer for the fuselage doublers instead of plywood. Build up the fuselage with F2, F3 and F4, making sure that all is square. Then fit F5 and F6. DO NOT glue the tail as the fin slots in later after it has been covered. Now fit the top turtle deck, followed

by the top rear side pieces, and sheet the rear underside, all except the last 3 in. This is for the ply tailwheel support. The tank bay is covered later.

Its now time to drill the holes for the front wing dowels. Offer the wings up to the fuselage, then drill two 3/16 holes through the front of F3 into the leading edge of the wings..."

Supplementary file notes

Article.

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