Duck (oz1409)

About this Plan

The Duck. Free flight rubber powered amphibian. From Air Trails magazine, by Louis Garami.

Quote: "A rubber-powered amphibian. The Duck, by Lou Garami.

WITH the exception of the multimotored ships, an amphibian is regarded as one of the toughest to adapt for rubber power. The numerous problems in designing which pop up here and there are all out of the ordinary and even the necessary flying adjustments seem to go against one's previous experiences.

The main problems are to secure a normal length of concealed rubber line, safe prop clearance with a normal-size prop, and an easily retractable landing gear for water take-offs.

In the past few years I have made several attempts to produce a good flying amphibian, but for some reason they all wound up far too complicated to attract the average builder. The first models had a regular crankshaft transmission with the propeller constantly shaving the imaginary pilot's head in the open cockpit. Later on a single universal joint would do, but at the same time it would scare away the interested builder.

And then came the 'Duck.' There are no mechanical gadgets to coax into action here, which, while taking most of the romance out of it places this amphibian within the ability of the average sport modeler.

The unusual features are the tissue-covered sheet balsa body and tail for waterproofing, the built-in upthrust to overcome the tendency of diving, and a very simple retractable landing gear.

And now you may ask the often-heard question: But how does it fly, mister? Excellent, my dear chappie. But definitely.

BOGDY AND NACELLE The body and nacelle are made of 1/32 soft sheet balsa. First cut out two of No 1 and No 3 blanks and one of No 2 blank. Now cover these with Jap tissue on one-side. Make sure that .a left and right blank is obtained of each twin. In addition to these cover
a whole sheet of 1/32 x 2 in the same way to provide for the top and bottom of the body. The best way to cover with tissue is to brush dope on the whole surface, lay an oversize tissue on top and smooth out with the palm of the hand. To counteract the strong warping tendency a coat of dope should follow on the other side, and when both sides are dry the tissue is trimmed with a razor blade.

Now prepare the four formers (FA, FB, FC, FD). FA is a triangular block of wood forming the nose of the bedy. Cement the rear hook on FD before assembling the two sides. First pin and cement the two sides to FA. When the glue has set put the other formers in one by one and lastly pull the top or the tail together and cement. Bottom blank No 3 is fitted in between the two sides, thereby shaping the bottom of the boat from the step on.

All the other pieces needed for the by are just eversize pifeea of weed glued on to the sides and trimmed after. The whole top can be made easily out of one piece, but the front end of the bottom requires four pieces..."

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