V-Gnot (oz14081)

About this Plan

V-Gnot. Radio control slope soarer model.

Quote: "A modest little 1 metre slope soarer that's easy to build and great fun to fly. V-Gnot, by Dave Scoles.

Before we begin to build the V-Gnot , let me say just a few words to enlighten you on the original design conception and why or how I first designed this fun flying model.

A short history: In 1990, I found a free plan in one of the model mags for a nice 1 metre size model called a Gnot. Over a period of time I built several of these, changing bits and pieces as I went along.

The original had a plug-in wing and tail, but these were jettisoned in favour of one-piecers. The follow on development was a T-tail version named the 'NotaGnot' - simply because it wasn't.

I finally finished up with this design, which was christened the V-Gnot'. You can see I have a wonder-ful imagination when it comes to names. It was whilst I was on a recent modelling holiday when I was approached by the new editor of Silent Flight. Would I be interested in producing a FREE PLAN of the V-Gnot for his mag. I felt the colour drain from me. FREE? I exclaimed, I don't even do cheap! After suitable bribes however the colour returned and here it is - hope you like it!!

Construction: Wings: I use foam wings on all my models for speed of construction. Simply cut the wing from white foam, stick on the 1/4 balsa dummy trailing edge and 1/8 balsa dummy leading edge, sand to shape and then veneer the wing with 1/16 sheet balsa.

Then add the two laminates of 1/8 light ply leading edge. The piece of 3/8 x 1-1/2 aileron stock is cut down to 1-1/4 and cut in half. Tack glue the two pieces of 18 in place making up the shortfall from scrap, add the 1/2 tip blocks and sand to shape.

Draw a centre-line on each tip - make up two strips each 1/2 x 1/8 x 8 and pin these along the centre line. Then place on a flat sur-face and butt together. There should be no more than 2mm difference on the centre. If all is well simply join the wing using a five minute epoxy.

Make up the two torque rods and bushes from 12 swg piano wire and tube as shown on plan. Solder on the 12 gauge brass arms after flattening one end and drilling for the control linkage. Cut two brass sleeves for the other end of the torque rods..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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