School Chucky Phantom (oz13977)
About this Plan
School Chucky Phantom (chuck glider). Simple all-sheet glider model. A profile model of the F-4 Phantom II.
Quote: "A simple all sheet glider used as a school project 'down under'. School Chucky, by Bob Greaves.
Bob Greaves is Australian and is an Art Teacher in Victoria, 'down under'. This model was designed originally to give school children a practical exercise in math-ematics, together with some basic science of flight and then to provide a practical experience in craftsmanship.
With the continual rise in cost of teaching materials economy of construction and conservation of materials was also a factor in the design. The 'Phantom' may be made simply by tracing the various components onto the balsa and cutting them out, or the shapes for wings and tailplane may be constructed either directly on the wood or on thin card (to be used as templates) using a rule and protractor. This latter method may be favoured if the model is to be a school project. It provides a good practical purpose to the understanding of accurate measure-ment and the plotting of angles using the proverbial 'school protractor'.
The model flies well and could certainly inspire pupils with the desire and incentive to follow the project through to a successful conclusion. Why not ask your teacher if the 'Phantom' could be part of your school syllabus?
Materials One 3ft. length of 1.5 x 100 mm balsa will provide enough balsa for two sets of wings, tailplane, fin, etc, and although one sheet of 6mm x 75 mm balsa will give you two fuselages it is more economical in the long run to use 100mm stock as you will then either (1) have enough wood for five fuselages, or alternatively (2) have a useful piece left over, if only building two!
PVA glue is strongly recommended although quick setting epoxy can be used to advantage if you are in a hurry.
Fine sandpaper, Plasticine and a few pins completes the check list unless the various shapes are to be geometrically 'constructed' in which case you will need a good rule, a protractor and a pencil with a sharp point.
Construction: Start by marking out all parts onto thin card or direct onto the wood to he cut: fuselage on 6mrn thick balsa; all the rest on 1.5mm. Probably the easiest way is to carefully trace the outlines using a soft pencil, then turn the tracing over and draw over the outline on the reverse side, you can obtain a faint but clear outline on your card or wood.
Alternatively you can follow the inset pattern shown on the plan and using the dimensions and angles given construct a copy, again either directly on the wood or onto card to produce the necessary tem-plates, You may now use these outline templates to either cut round or preferably draw round and cut out the resulting shape using a steel rule or something less likely to be cut by your modelling knife, If you are using the latter method at school, perhaps you could persuade your teacher to make a master drawing on clear celluloid so that you can Iay it over yours as a check before you start cutting!
Use a sharp craft or modelling knife and cut using a rule as a guide. Cut slowly and carefully on a cutting board. Cut the fuselage free hand but do not try and cut through the whole 6mm the first time. Make repeated cuts until you are through. Cut the slots for the wings and tail very carefully and make sure that the blade is at right angles to the wood. Lightly sand all edges before gluing.
It is possible to make the slot for the rudder by repeatedly running a biro along the centre line until a depression about 3-4 mm is made.
Assembling: Glue the rudder in first. Make sure that it is vertical when viewed from the front. Glue the wings into position. Place a matchbox under each wing tip to achieve the correct dihedral (see the front view on the plan). Pin them to the fuselage from underneath until the glue dries. The tailplane has an anhedrai angle, i.e., it bends downwards or the opposite way to the wings (again, see the plan front view). Check that each side is symmetrical.
Balance: Add approximately 6g of Plasticine to the nose - place a pin vertically into the fuselage above the balance point (marked on the plan). Hold the pin head lightly between your finger and thumb. The aircraft should balance. Add or subtract Plasticine until balance is achieved.
Flying: Test glide bygently throwing the glider forward as you would throw a dart (but with less force). A long flat glide should result.
If it dives, reduce the weight or bend up the trailing edge of the tailplane slightly. This is best done by holding close to the mouth and breathing gently but steadily onto the wood whilst gently bending it in the direction you want the trim change. If it stalls, add more weight.
For full flights, launch the glider with a cricket bowling motion into the wind. It is possible to achieve altitudes of 20-30 metres and distances of 50-80 metres in gentle wind conditions. Do not paint the model - this will make it too heavy. However, it can be decorated with felt tipped pens."
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