Little Toot (oz13940)

About this Plan

Little Toot. Control line scale model biplane. For .29 to .45 engines.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 11/7/2022: Added article, thanks to Pit.

Quote: "Control Line plans for Little Toot. George Meyer's perky home-built biplane, 'Little Toot' is a Grade A natural for modeling as a scale control-liner. We worked directly from the plans for the real airplane. Scale fans are assured of accurate source material, thanks to Mr. Meyer, himself a modeler of long experience.

In the belief that a scale control-liner should be LARGE to insure good flying and ground handling characteristics, this Little Toot is scaled 1-3/4 inch to the foot. Wingspan comes out to 33-1/8 inches, length is just under 30; wing area totals 354 sq in. Standard size commercial spinner and wheels are to scale. With light-weight construction completed weight of model should be 30 to 32 oz. We do not recommend this model project to the beginner.

Plans show trim and coloring details for both the original Meyer Little Toot (registration N61G) and the, Schroeder Little Toot, named 'Hawk Pshaw' (N116E). On the drawings specific details for each of the two versions are marked according to these numbers: N61G and N116E. Unless noted otherwise construction details are the same on both aircraft.

The few minor differences are these: On Hawk Pshaw N116E, cowling shape differs, landing gear struts have streamlined fairings, wheel spats are different shape, a dorsal fin has been added, rudder, outline is changed slightly. So whether you choose to build the red and white Little Toot or the yellow and olive drab Hawk Pshaw, first study the drawings carefully.

Construction should start with the wings, since they will be needed near-finished for assembly to the fuselage.

Upper wing is built flat, in one piece over the plans. The scale NACA 2212 airfoil is shown so the trailing edges and the rear spar must be blocked up slightly above the building board. The 3/4 x 1 in leading edge can be put down directly on the board then carved to shape later. Notch the leading and trailing edges 3/32 deep for the 3/32 wing ribs. The thick LE corresponds to scale LE covering over front spar, also the rear spar is in scale position. Join the swept-back (8°) LE with the flat diamond of 1/8 plywood laid horizontally about mid-depth of the ribs.

Make the curved TE center-section one-piece to tie the rear spar together. With rear spar and TE blocked up and pinned in position the ribs should be cemented in place working from the center-section out towards tips. Note the filler block for the wing strut between ribs. Cut the 1/8 in wide slot before putting in place. Carve lower surface of filler block to correspond to rib curve later. Add tip sheet and corner gusset at LE; the tip rib should have height reduced to form tapered tip thickness... "

Update 13/8/2022: Replaced the article with a clearer copy, thanks to theshadow.

Supplementary file notes

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